
■ -^i 1 1 




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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



TXTT&3" 
Chap. Copyright No.. 

8helt£.^jS 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 






THE 

BOSTON MACHINIST. 

BEING A COMPLETE 

SCHOOL FOR THE APPRENTICE 

AS WELL AS THE 

ADVANCED MACHINIST. 

SHOWING HOW TO MAKE AND USE EVERY TOOL IN EVERY 
BRANCH OF THE BUSINESS. 

WITH A TREATISE ON 

SCREW- AND GEAR-CUTTING 

AND LESSONS TO AMATEUR INVENTORS, SHOWING THE 

PROPER WAY TO INTRODUCE THEIR 

INVENTIONS TO THE PUBLIC. 

Illustrated with Over 40 Engravings of Tools of the Latest Design 

Walter s. Fitzgerald, 

Inventor and Mechanical Engineer. 



FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 



FIRST THOUSAND, 






NEW YORK ; 

JOHN WILEY & SONS 

London : CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited 

1896. 



h*f6 li^ f 






fS< 



Copyright, 1896, 

BY 

WALTER S. FITZGERALD. 






v 






ROBERT DRUMMOND, ELECTROTYPKR AND PRINTER, NEW YOR£. 



PREFACE. 

In preparing this work the author has endeavored 
to give to the Mechanic a volume that he can readily 
understand, though he may not have a full knowl- 
edge of the scientific terms commonly used in works 
of this kind. He has also aimed to give a full ex- 
planation of every subject treated of in as few words 
as possible. He had thought of adding an article 
on the proper speed of turning and planing metals ; 
but as they vary so much in hardness, it is almost 
impossible to lay down any safe rule, and he has 
therefore concluded to omit it. He has also pur- 
posely omitted the subjects of Geometry and 
Machine Drawing, as they would have extended 
the volume beyond its proposed size ; and, besides, 
there are already published many good treatises on 
these subjects. Asking, therefore, that due allow- 
ance may be made for all omissions and imperfec- 
tions, he submits his little work to the hands of 
those for whom it is intended, 

iii 



IV PREFACE. 

Many of the engravings of tools shown in this 
work were kindly loaned to the author by the Pratt 
& Whitney Co. of Hartford, Conn., manufacturers 
of standard and special makes of tools and ma- 
chinery. Walter S. Fitzgerald. 



CONTENTS. 



ART PAGE 

1. The Apprentice's First Lesson . i 

2. Lesson Second i 

3. Lesson Third 3 

4. Lesson Fourth 3 

5. Lesson Fifth 4 

6. To Drill a Large Hole in the End of a Shaft 4 

7. To Straighten Shafting 6 

8. Setting a Lathe to Turn Tapering 7 

9. Turning Shafting 9 

10. Setting a Lathe to Turn Tapering 12 

11. Tools for Different Kinds of Turning 13 

12. Planer Tools , « , 14 

13. Chucking Pulleys 14 

Combination Lathe-chuck 19 

14. Setting the chuck-rest 21 

15. To Drill a Hole where you have No Reamer 21 

16. Boring a Hole with a Boring-tool 22 

17. Squaring or Facing up Cast-iron Surfaces 22 

18. Scraping Cast-iron Smooth 23 

19. Keep your Lathe Clean 23 

v 



VI CONTENTS. 

ART. PAGE 

20. Boring Holes with a Boring-arbor 23 

21. To Make a Boring-tool that will not Chatter 24 

22. Gearing a Lathe for Screw-cutting 25 

23. Cutting a Screw in an Engine-lathe 26 

24. Cutting Square-thread Screws 27 

25. Mongrel Threads 27 

26. Planing Metals 29 

27. Planing Perpendicularly 29 

28. Planing a Key-way 29 

29. Planing a T-shaped Slot 31 

30. To Plane the Cross-head for a Planer 32 

31. Note 33 

32. Gear-cutting 33 

33. Depth of Teeth 34 

34. Measuring to Find the Number of Teeth 34 

35. Bevel-gears 35 

Worm Gears 36 

36. The Different Styles of Filing 38 

37. To File a Square Hole , 38 

38. Draw-filing and Finishing 38 

39. Lining Boxes with Babbitt Metal 39 

40. Making Lining Metal 39 

41. Putting Machines Together 40 

42. Working Steel for Tools 40 

43. Annealing Steel. .*. 41 

44. Water-annealing 42 

45. Hardening Steel Tools of the Various Kinds 42 

46. Dipping Tools when Hardening 44 

47. Dipping a Half-round Reamer 44 

48. Dipping a Fluted Reamer Properly , . . . 44 



CONTENTS. Yl] 

ART. PAGE 

49. Tempering Tools 45 

50. Fancy or Special Tool-making 46 

51. To Make a Collet or Drill-socket 4° 

52. Making Arbors 49 

53. Eccentric Arbors 51 

54. Making Drills 52 

55. Spiral Drills 54 

56. Cutting the Spiral Grooves 55 

57. Flat Drills for Chucking 56 

58. Tap and Reamer Wrenches 57 

59. Proportions for Tap and Reamer Wrenches 57 

60. Tap- and Reamer-wrenches, Size Two 58 

61. Tap- and Reamer-wrenches, Size Three 58 

62. Wrenches for Taps and Reamers, Size Four 58 

63. Wrenches for Taps and Reamers, Size Five. , 60 

64. Wrenches for Taps and Reamers, Size Six 60 

65. Making Taps. The Turning 61 

66. Proportions of Screws 62 

67. Making Taps 65 

68. Taps with Square Threads 67 

69. Mongrel or Half V, Half Square Threads 67 

70. Fluting Taps 68 

71. How to Go to Work 69 

72. Fluted Reamers 72 

73. How to Make a Fluted Reamer 73 

74. Half-round Reamers 76 

75. Rose Reamers 77 

76. Counter-boring Tools 78 

77. Making Dies for Screw-cutting. 79 

78. Milling Tools or Cutters 83 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

ART. PAGE 

79. Proportionate Numbers of Lips in Different Sizes 

of Cutters 87 

80. Proportions of Broad Cutters 90 

81. Punches and Dies 91 

82. Next to Make the Punch 93 

83. Making Gauges 94 

84. A Tool for Turning the Outside of a Box 97 

85. T igs for Drilling 98 

86. A Few Words as to Master Mechanics 102 

87. Lessons to Amateur Inventors and Others who 

Propose to Become Inventors 104 

88. A Form of License no 

89. Inventors and Mechanics Contrasted in 

90. Making Drawings 112 

91. A Few Words to Men of Capital 114 

92. Note on Balance-wheels 118 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

1. Side View of a Fluted Reamer 2 

2. Section of a Mongrel-thread Screw for Great Wear 2 

3. A Rifling-machine 5 

4. Engine-lathe with Turret Head 8 

5-11. Lathe-tools 11,15,16 

12. A Tool for Planing a Key-way through a Hole . .,. 18 

13. A Combination Lathe-chuck 20 

14. A Boring and Inside Threading Tool (New) 22 

15. A Tool for Square Threads with Stock or Holder. . 27 

16. A Tool for Cutting Wire 40 

17. A Collet or Drill-socket 46 

18. Flat Drills for Chucking, and a Tap-trench 53 

19. Portions of Screws showing Three Different Kinds 

of Threads 59 

20. A Tap with Sliding Guide 60 

21. A Standard-thread Gauge 61 

22. A Square-thread Tap ; Side and End Views 64 

23. Rhodes's Threading-tool with Stock 65 

24. A Chaser with Stack, Tool-post, Block, etc 66 

25. Elevating Centres with Index for Cutting Gears, 

Taps, Reamers, Mills, etc. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 69 

ix 



X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

26. A Drill with a Single Lip; also a Reamer with a 

Single Lip 70 

27. A Fluted Taper Reamer 72 

28. A Counter-boring Tool ; Side and End Views.'. ... 73 

29. A Face View of a Die for Screw-cutting; also Thin 

Saw or Cutter 74 

30. A Fluted Shell Reamer 75 

31. Spring Threading Die with Collar. (Pratt & Whit- 

ney Co.) 80 

32. A Die used within a Hand Stock. . . 81 

33. Adjustable Threading Die and Head for a Bolt- 

Cutter S2 

34. Stocks, Taps, and Dies with Case 82 

35. Gang Mills. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 8_| 

36. A Stem Cutter S5 

37. A Spiral Mill and an Angular Cutter 86 

38. Gang Mills. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 87 

39. Hollow Mill and Collar 89 

40. Cylindrical or Plug Gauges, Male and Female 94 

41. Knurling Mills and Stock, showing Work. (Pratt 

& Whitney Co.) 95 

42. A Tool for Turning the Outside of Boxes 98 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



1. The Apprentice's First Lesson. 

The first thing for the apprentice to learn is to 
clean and keep in order the lathes, planers, drills, 
milling- and slabbing-machines. This is done by 
brushing off the chips, and then wiping them with 
a wad of cotton waste. To clean a lathe run the 
carriage and puppet-head about four feet from the 
main head ; then to keep the feed and gears clean 
brush all the chips towards the carriage, and after 
doing this wipe the head and ways clean and oil 
them. Then, after cleaning the carriage and pup- 
pet-head, run them back to the main head, brush 
the chips from the lower end of the lathe, wipe and 
oil the ways, and it is done. 

2. Lesson Second. 

The next lesson is to learn to trim castings. 
This is done by chipping off the rough places with 
a cold chisel and then filing them smooth with a 



THE BOSTON AiACHLNIST. 




THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 3 

second-hand file, which answers quite as well as a 
new one. 

3. Lesson Third. 

The next thing to learn is to centre bolts, shafts, 
etc. To do this take a centre-punch and hammer, 
and punch it into the centre of each end of the 
shaft or bolt as near the centre as you can guess ; 
then find a pair of bench-centres and spring them 
apart, putting the points into the punch-marks you 
have made in each end of the shaft. After doing 
this take a piece of chalk in one hand and turn the 
shaft with the other, holding the chalk near enough 
to the shaft, near the ends, to touch the side that 
runs out. When you have done this, take the shaft 
from the centres and remove the punch-mark 
towards the side marked by the chalk. Continue 
these operations till the shaft is true at the ends. 

4. Lesson Fourth. 

Having learned to centre a shaft, you will now 
proceed and learn to drill the centres. In doing 
this use a drill about one sixteenth of an inch in 
diameter. Put the drill into a hand-lathe, and 
with one end of the shaft upon the centre drill the 
other, continually turning it around while drilling. 
They should be drilled about one fourth of an inch 



4 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

deep. After doing this countersink them with a 
three-square countersink, made for the purpose. 

5. Lesson Fifth. 

You will now learn other modes of drilling, the 
first being to drill holes through pieces of iron. 
In doing this they are first laid out a certain dis- 
tance from the edges with a pair of dividers. Then 
make a punch-mark the distance from the edge or 
position where you wish to drill the hole. After 
marking this punch-mark set your dividers the 
size you want to drill the hole, and strike a circle 
around the mark made by the punch. Having 
done this, proceed to drill the hole, taking great 
care to drill within the circle, and if your drill runs 
to one side chip a piece out of the opposite side 
with a half-round chisel ; this will bring the drill 
back to the centre of the circle. Continue this 
practice till the hole is perfectly true, and if you 
are careful at the first you will find no difficulty in 
drilling holes, and drilling them properly. 

6. To Drill a Large Hole in the End of a Shaft 

This is only done when you have no chuck that 
will hold the shaft. To do it properly drill a small 
hole the depth required with a straight spiral drill, 
or if you have none use a flat drill that is straight 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 










6 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

on the sides ; then follow with one or two more 
larger sizes, as may be required. The object of using 
a small drill first is because, there being less press- 
ure endwise on the drill, it will not run out side- 
wise, as it would if the small holes were not drilled 
first. In drilling with small drills, such as centre- 
drills, always speed up your drill as fast as it will 
run. This prevents breaking the drills, and there 
is no danger of burning the points thereof, as some 
suppose, except the steel be very hard. 

7. To Straighten Shafting. 

This should be done by centering, as before ex- 
plained ; then put into a lathe, and the ends 
squared up with what is called a side-tool. After 
doing this take a piece of chalk and try it in several 
places to find out where the worst crooks are ; 
then, if you have not a machine for springing shaft- 
ing, spring it with a lever where the worst crook is, 
and continue this operation till the shaft is straight. 

While springing a heavy shaft with a lever the 
tool-block on the carriage is used as a fulcrum 
while springing it, and at each end of a crook, a 
link having its ends twisted to a right angle is 
placed over the shaft, and these links extend down 
enough below the bed of the lathe to allow a bar 
to be run through them, these bars being sup- 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 7 

ported by the lower sides of the bed. A helper is 
required while doing this work. When the shaft 
is a small one, it may be straightened on an anvil 
or other heavy body of metal with a sledge or a 
hammer ; and it is well when trying to find the 
crooked places in a shaft to use a tool having a 
square end placed against it in order to find the 
largest crooks, and also to see how far it is from 
being true. A shaft that is nearly true may be 
sprung while on the centres, using the tool-block as 
a fulcrum for the lever, and without the use of 
links. 

8. Setting a Lathe Straight to Turn Shafting. 

First see if your centres are true ; if not, turn 
them up. For this purpose a square-end tool is 
best ; and they should always be kept true to a 
three-square gauge. Unless you do this, you will 
spoil about half your work, as many a one has 
clone. After this is done set your puppet-head so 
that it will turn the shaft straight, and if it has no 
straight mark upon it turn one end of the shaft for 
about an inch ; then, without moving your tool, 
take the shaft out of the lathe. Then run the 
carriage down to the main head, put your shaft 
into the lathe again, with the end that is turned 
towards the main head, and if the tool touches the 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 




?)i[p^w 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 9 

place you have turned the lathe is straight. If it 
does not touch, screw over the puppet-head, and 
keep trying it until your tool touches the place 
turned, while on either centre of the lathe. 

9. Turning Shafting. 

To do this properly two chips should always be 
run over the shaft, for the reason that it saves 
filing and leaves the shaft truer and more round ; 
and on shafts thus turned the time saved in filing 
more than compensates for the time lost in turn- 
ing. Before you commence you will put your 
feed-belts or gear on a coarse feed. Turn it -a 
sixty-fourth of an inch larger than the size required. 
Having turned off this chip, commence the finish- 
ing-chip, and turn it small enough to have the 
pulley-wring on about an eighth of an inch without 
filing. This will leave it large enough to file and 
finish. If there are couplings to go on a shaft, 
with holes smaller than the holes in the pulleys, 
the ends of the shaft, where they fit on, should be 
turned down to within a sixty-fourth of an inch of 
the size desired before any part of the shaft is 
finished ; that is, every part of a shaft should be 
turned to within a sixty-fourth of an inch of the size 
required before any part of it has the finish-chip 
taken off. The reason for this is that it leaves 



10 THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 

every part of the shaft perfectly true, which would 
not be the case were it done otherwise. Having 
done this, you will file the shaft so that the pulleys 
will slide on, and the couplings so that they will 
drive on, polish the shaft with a pair of polishing- 
clamps and some emery, and it is done. 

In turning a long shaft a fixture known as a cat- 
head is sometimes used to steady it while being 
turned. This fixture is a block of round cast iron 
about six inches long, and has a hole through it 
about an inch larger than the shaft, or about three 
inches in diameter, and at each of its ends are three 
set-screws. This fixture is placed on the shaft 
about equidistant from its ends, and the screws 
are set against the shaft and moved until the out- 
side is perfectly true at both of its ends while the 
shaft is on the centres of the lathe. This fixture is 
then placed within the slides of a steadying-rest 
that is bolted to the ways, and these slides are then 
screwed inward until they touch the fixture on 
either side ; then the screws on the side of these 
slides are screw r ed up to hold them in position and 
prevent the shaft from trembling while being turned. 
In long slender shafts a rest may be used to follow 
the tool. This rest is bolted to the carriage, and 
prevents the shaft from springing away from the 
tool while it is being turned. 





A Left-hand Side-tool, side view. 
A Right-hand Side tool, top view. 
A Round-ended Tool, for facing cast iron, etc. 



11 



12 THE BOSTOtf MACHINIST. 

10. Setting a Lathe to Turn Tapering. 

This is done by calculating the taper, a certain 
amount to the foot or length of the piece to be 
turned. Therefore, if you have a shaft to turn a 
foot long, with one end one inch larger than the 
other, you will set your puppet-head over one half 
inch, and you will get the required taper of one 
inch to the foot. If you have a shaft a foot long, 
and wish to turn one half of it tapering half an 
inch, you will set the puppet-head over half an 
inch, as before ; for the shafts being a foot long, you 
must calculate your taper from the length of the 
shaft ; and if the taper is to be half an inch larger 
at six inches from the end, and the shaft exactly 
a foot long, the taper would be, as before, one inch 
to the foot. If you have a shaft to turn that is 
twenty inches long, and you wish to turn it taper- 
ing two inches in its whole length, set your lathe 
over one inch, and this will give you the taper re- 
quired — two inches in twenty. If you have a 
shaft twenty inches long, and you wish to turn a 
taper half an inch in five, set your puppet-head 
over one inch, as before ; this will give you a taper 
of five inches in twenty, and half an inch in five ; 
because half an inch is one fourth of tw r o inches, 
and five inches is one fourth of twenty. If you 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 13 

have a shaft twenty inches long, and want to turn 
it taper one inch in ten, set your lathe over one 
inch, as before, and you have it ; for the shaft being 
twenty inches long and two inches taper in its whole 
length, it would be one inch only in half its length. 

11. Tools for Different Kinds of Turning. 

1. The best tool for squaring up the end of a 
shaft is what is called by machinists a side-tool, 
and the best tool for turning small shafting is a 
tool known as a diamond point. 

2. The best tool to turn heavy shafting is a 
round-end tool, made to stand high like a diamond- 
point, and to cut freely from the side. 

3. The best tool to turn a balance-wheel of cast 
iron, or to square up any large surface, is also a 
round-end tool, made well tapering to cut from the 
side. 

4. The best tool to cut off a shaft with is a tool 
made thin and having the end stand no higher 
than the centres of the lathe, instead of up, as in 
turning-tools ; this prevents their running in and 
breaking. 

5. The best tool to bore out a hole is a lathe- 
boring tool with the end turned on a right angle to 
the left and the point turned up hooking. These tools 
bore far nicer than those made square on the top. 



14 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

6. The best tool with which to cut a V-thread 
screw is a V-thread tool with the points ground to 
lean down when finishing, as it prevents running 
inward and breaking the tool or tearing the screw. 

7. In cutting a square thread first use a square- 
end tool about three fourths of the thickness of 
the thread you design to cut, and finish with one 
the size of the thread. The same rule applies 
when cutting a thread within a hole. 

12. Planer Tools. 

The best tool for ordinary planing is a half-side 
tool made short, and with the point turned upward 
as an ordinary diamond-point. 

The best tool for squaring up a cast iron surface 
is a round-encl tool, made to cut from the side. 

The best tools for planing under, as in slide- 
rests, etc., etc., are sharpened up to a point, with 
the point turned upward, and with a taper from 
the point to the body of about two inches. 

13. Chucking Pulleys. 

The term chuck means to secure a piece of 
work in a certain position so as to drill or plane it 
true. The same name is given to the instrument 
employed in holding pieces of round metal, wheels, 
pulleys, etc. There are many kinds of these chucks ; 




Top View of a Screw- tool for cutting V Threads. 
Side View of a Tool for cutting V Threads. 
A Diamond-point Tool, for turning Small Shafting. 

15 




A Tool for cutting off a Shaft; is also used for cutting Square 

Thread- screws. 
A Lathe Tool for boring Holes. 
A Tool for cutting a Screw inside a hole. 

16 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. IT 

one is a large and round piece of metal having a 
hole cut in one side of it and within which is cut a 
screw for the purpose of securing it to the spindle 
of a lathe. On the side opposite is a certain num- 
ber of jaws, usually three or four, which screw 
together for the purpose of holding a wheel, or 
other piece of work, while it is being drilled. In 
chucking a wheel or pulley the first thing to be 
done is to screw it into the jaws of the chuck, as 
near the position desired as you can guess. After 
doing this screw a tool into the post, and set one 
end of it near the face of the pulley, then turn and 
adjust the wheel by means of the screws until the 
tool touches it all around. After doing this true 
the edges in the same way ; and then try the face 
again to see if it has moved. Some wheels are cast 
oblong by the pattern's shrinking ; and when wheels 
come this way the proper mode of chucking them 
is to set your tool against the face, as before, turn 
and adjust the wheel so that it will touch the tool 
at two opposite points, then with a rule measure 
the two points farthest from the tool, and adjust 
them so they will be equal, and the wheel will be 
true. Some mechanics use a piece of chalk, but 
this is an improper way to true a wheel, even when 
it is perfectly round, for a wheel that is not chucked 
and drilled true costs more time in turning than is 



18 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 




A Tool for planing a Key-way through a Hole. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 19 

needed to chuck and drill half a dozen wheels 
and pulleys that are perfectly drilled and for pat- 
terns they should be trued by the inside of the face 
and on the sides by the arms. 

Combination Lathe-chuck. 

CONCENTRIC OR ECCENTRIC, UNIVERSAL OR INDEPENDENT. 
JAWS REVERSIBLE. 

This chuck has been improved from time to time, 
and is so well known that but a brief description is 
necessary. The jaws slide in radial slots, and at 
all times these slots are covered, excluding dirt and 
chips. 

The chuck is rendered universal or independent 
at will by the meshing or unmeshing of the circu- 
lar rack with the bevel-pinion on the screw r . This 
is quickly done by pressing the thumb-catch on the 
back of the chuck and revolving the supporting ring. 

In holding eccentrics or irregular work the jaws 
may be placed in any desired position and the rack 
and screw-pinions meshed, forming a chuck with 
eccentrically placed but with simultaneously mov- 
ing jaws. The jaws in all sizes except the 4- and 6- 
inch are reversible, and the whole chuck may be 
dismembered for cleaning or oiling while on the 
lathe-spindle by simply removing three screws, a 
desirable feature in large chucks. 



20 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 




I - ' A '" i 




IJll 







Combination Lathe-chuck. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 21 

14. Setting the Chuck-rest. 

In doing this set it into the tool-post with the 
middles of the slats through which the drill passes 
exactly as high as the centres of your lathe, for 
if it is above or below the centres it will cut the 
hole larger than the drill, and thereby spoil the 
wheel. Having set the rest, you can proceed to 
drill the wheel. This should be done with two 
drills, and where the holes are cored badly out of 
true even three should be used, if you would have 
the hole perfectly true and the last drill should 
only cut a chip one sixteenth of an inch. This 
leaves a good and true hole. 

15. To Drill a Hole Where You have No Reamer. 

It is sometimes necessary to drill a hole of an 
exact size to fit a certain shaft, and at the same 
time have it smooth without reaming it. This may 
be done by first drilling a hole one hundredth of 
an inch smaller than the size desired, and then 
making a drill the exact size and running it through 
to finish with. This last drill should have the 
corners of its lips rounded, like a reamer, and the 
hole should be finished without holding the drill 
with a rest, 



22 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

16. Boring a Hole with a Boring-tool. 

In boring a hole with a boring-tool it is usually- 
necessary to drill the hole first, and too much care 
cannot be taken in finishing. An iron gauge should 
be made first ; it is usually made of a piece of sheet 
iron or wire. The hole should then be drilled 




A Boring and Inside Threading Tool. (New Invention.) 

smaller than the size desired, and then bored to 
the required size, and it is impossible to bore a hole 
perfect without taking two or three light chips, mere 
scrapings, with which to finish. Holes may in this 
way be bored as nicely as they can be reamed. 

17. Squaring or Facing Up Cast-iron Surfaces. 

A round-end tool is best for this. A rough chip 
should first be taken off over the entire surface to 
be faced. Then speed your lathe up and, taking a 
light chip, merely enough to take out the first tool- 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 23 

marks, run over the entire surface again. In turn- 
ing up surfaces it is always best to begin at the 
centre and feed out, as the tool cuts more free and 
will wear twice as long. 

18. Scraping Cast Iron Smooth. 

To scrape cast iron it is necessary to put a rest 
close to the surface to be scraped, and then with a 
thin wide scraper commence by resting your 
scraper on one edge and scraping, twisting the 
scraper, and sustaining it while cutting, in your 
hand. You must not bear on hard, but scrape as 
light a chip as possible, and you will have no 
trouble in scraping cast iron. 

19. Keep Your Lathe Clean. 

I again remind you of keeping your lathe clean, 
and your centres in shape, as, unless you do this, 
you will soon spoil every arbor in the shop ; and 
the ways of your lathe will be torn away, so as to 
be unfit to have any nice piece of work done upon 
them. 

20. Boring Holes icith Boring-arbor. 

A boring-arbor is a shaft with a steel tool set in 
it for the purpose of boring holes of great length, 
and is designed to be used in a lathe. In doing 



24 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

this properly you must first see if your lathe is set 
straight. If not, adjust it. Having done this, put the 
piece of work to be bored in the carriage of your 
lathe, pass your arbor through the hole to be bored, 
and put it on the centres of your lathe. Having 
done this, adjust your work true to the position 
desired by measuring from the point of the tool, 
continually turning round the arbor from side to 
side of the piece to be bored while you are bolting 
it to the carriage, and measure until it is perfectly 
true. Having done this, bore the hole, and take 
for the last chip only a hundredth of an inch. 
This makes a true and smooth hole. It is impos- 
sible to make a hole true with any kind of a tool 
when you are cutting a large chip, for the tool 
springs so that no dependence can be placed 
upon it. 

21. To Make a Boring-Tool that will Xot Chatter. 

Boring-tools, when used in small arbors, are 
always liable to chatter and make a rough hole. 
To prevent this the tool should be turned in a 
lathe, while in its position in the arbor, upon the 
circle of the size of the hole to be bored, and the 
bearing lengthwise of the tool should be only as 
wide as the feed of the lathe, for if the bearing of 
the tool is on the whole face it will chatter. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 25 

22. Gearing a Lathe for Screw-cutting. 

Every screw-cutting lathe contains a long screw 
called the lead-screw, which feeds the carriage of 
the lathe. While cutting screws upon the end of 
this screw is placed a gear, to which is transmitted 
motion from another gear, placed on the end of the 
spindle. These gears each contain a different 
number of teeth, for the purpose of cutting different 
threads, and the threads are cut a certain number 
to the inch, varying from one to fifty. Therefore 
to find the proper gears to cut a certain number of 
threads to the inch you will first multiply the 
number of threads you desire to cut to the inch by 
any small number, four, for instance, and this will 
give you the proper gear to put on the lead-screw. 
Then with the same number, four, multiply the 
number of threads to the inch in the lead-screw, 
and this will give you the proper gear to put on the 
spindle. For example, if you want to cut twelve 
to the inch, multiply twelve by four, and it will 
give you forty-eight. Put this gear on the lead- 
screw. Then with the same number, four, multiply 
the number of threads to the inch in the lead-screw. 
If it is five, for instance, it will give you twenty. 
Put this on the spindle, and your lathe is geared. 
If the lead-screw is four, five, six, seven, or eight, 



2d the bostox machinist. 

the same rule holds good. Always multiply the 
number of threads to be cut first. Some, indeed 
most, small lathes are now made with a stud geared 
into the spindle, which stud only runs half as fast 
as the spindle, and in finding the gears for these 
lathes you will first multiply the number of threads 
to be cut, as before, and then multiply the number 
of threads on the lead-screw, as double the num- 
ber it is. For instance, if you want to cut ten to 
the inch, multiply by four, and you get forty. Put 
this on the lead-screw. Then, if your lead-screw is 
five to the inch, you will call it ten, and multiply 
by four, and it will give you forty. Again put this 
on your stud, and your lathe is geared ready to 
commence cutting. 

23. Cutting a Screw in an Engine-lathe. 

In cutting V-thread screw it is only necessary 
for you to practise operating the shipper and slide- 
screw handle of your lathe before cutting. After 
having done this until you get the motions you 
may set the point of the tool as high as the centre, 
and if you keep the tool sharp you will find no 
difficulty in cutting screws. You must, however, 
cut very light chips, mere scrapings, in finishing, 
and must take the screw out of the lathe often, and 
look at it from both sides, very carefully, to see 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 



27 



that the threads, do not lean, like fish-scales. After 
cutting polish with an emery-stick and some emery. 

24. Cutting Square-thread Screws. 

In cutting square-thread screws it is always 
necessary to get the depth required with a tool 
somewhat thinner than one half the pitch of the 
thread. After doing this use another tool exactly 
one half the pitch of the thread, and use it to 




A Tool for Square Threads with Stock or Tool-holder. 

finish with, cutting a light chip on each side of the 
groove. After doing this polish with a pine-stick 
and some emery. Square threads for strength 
should be cut one half the depth of their pitch, 
while square threads for wear may and should be 
cut one half deeper than the pitch. 

25. Mongrel Threads. 

Mongrel, or half-V, half-square threads are 
usually made for great wear, and should be cut 



28 THE BOSTOK MACHINIST. 

one fourth deeper than their pitch, and for extraor- 
dinary wear they may even be cut once and one 
half the depth of their pitch. The point and 
bottom of the grooves should be in width one fourth 
the depth of their pitch. What is meant here by 
the point of the thread is the outside surface. And 
the bottom of the groove is the groove between the 
threads. In cutting these threads it is necessary 
to use a tool about the shape of the thread, and in 
thickness about one fifth less than the thread is 
when finished. As it is impossible to cut the whole 
surface at once, you will cut in depth about one 
sixteenth at a time, then a chip off the sides of the 
thread, and continue in this way, alternately, till 
you have arrived at the depth required. Make a 
gauge of the size required between the threads, 
and finish by scraping with water. It is usually 
best to leave such screws as these a little large until 
after they are cut, and then turn off a light chip to 
size them. This leaves them true and nice. 

Since a long screw while being cut for either a 
square or a mongrel thread will spring or bend, it 
should be left a fortieth of an inch above size until 
the thread is cut. Then a chip should be taken 
from the outside with a sharp tool, using oil in cut- 
ting it, thus leaving it much smoother than if it were 
cut without the oil. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 29 

26. Planing 3fetals. 

The first operation in planing is to oil your 
planer and find out if the bed is smooth. If it is 
not, file off the rough places. Then change the 
dogs to see if they work well, and find out the 
movements of the planer. After doing this bolt 
your work on to the bed, and if it is a long thin 
piece plane off a chip; then turn it over and finish 
the other side, taking too chips, the last of which 
should be very light. Great care should be taken 
in bolting it to the bed not to spring it. After 
finishing this side turn it to the other side, and take 
off a light cut to finish it. 

27. Planing Perpendicularly. 

In planing perpendicularly it is necessary to 
swivel the bottom of the small head around, so it 
will stand about three fourths of an inch inside of 
square, towards the piece you are to plane. This 
prevents breaking the tool when the bed runs back. 

28. Planing a Key-way. 

To place a key-way in a shaft it is necessary to 
first drill a hole, the size you intend to make the 
key-way, as deep as you want to plane. Then 
with a square-end tool plane the key- way a little 



30 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

narrower than you design to finish it down to the 
proper depth. After doing this finish with a tool 
of the desired size. Some think it unnecessary to 
use two tools to plane a key-way, and argue that it 
takes more time. This may be the case, but it is 
impossible to plane a key-way with one tool, 
especially a narrow one, without tearing it, and 
again it is impossible to tell whether or not the 
tool will run under sidewise until you have planed 
the way its depth. Therefore, if you first plane the 
way with a narrow tool, and it is found to run 
under, it is very easy to set it right in cutting out 
the finished chip. In setting a tool to cut a key- 
way set a square on the planer-bed, and try both 
sides of it near the point to see that it is perpen- 
dicular. This will usually prevent its running 
under. 

Having set both sides of this tool to correspond 
with the edge of a square, move the bed of the 
planer to a point above and near to the shaft 
where the key-way is to be planed.. Then with 
the beam of a square on the bed of the planer, and 
the edge of the blade in the square against the shaft 
and opposite the tool, measure the distance from 
the square to the tool on each side, and move the 
tool until it measures the same from each si'de of 
the shaft to the sides of the tool, and the tool will 



THE B0ST0H MACHINIST. 31 

be over the centre of the shaft and in a proper posi- 
tion to do its work. Key-ways are now usually cut 
on a milling-machine, but many small shops do not 
have one. In planing a key-w^ay through a hole 
set the lower or cutting end of the tool at a point 
to correspond with the centre of the hole through 
which the key-way is to be planed ; then measure 
from each side of the hole to either side of the tool, 
and move it until it measures an equal distance 
from the sides of the tool to the sides of the hole. 

29. Planing a T-shaped Slat. 

In planing a T-shaped slat or way, such as are 
used for slides, or on a planer-bed, to hold the 
head of a bolt, it is first necessary to plane to the 
desired depth with a square-end tool, and after 
doing this plane the upper part of the way to the 
desired width. Having done this, plane the bot- 
tom part of the way with two tools, one bent on a 
right angle, and the other to the left. And in plan- 
ing large ways these tools should be made as small 
as they will stand without breaking, and should cut 
freely on each of the three sides. Make a sheet- 
iron gauge, and plane the way to it. In small shal- 
low ways they may be planed the depth and upper 
width at once, and then finished with tools made 
the desired shape of the way. 



32 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

30. To Plane the Cross-head for a Planer, a Bed or 
a Table for 31 Ming -machine, Lathe, etc. 

To begin this work first plane the top and sides 
of the guide nearly to the size required when 
finished. Next plane the outer sides at the bottom 
of these guide-ways on either side, taking off only 
a light cut up to the bottom of said guide-ways. 
Then turn the casting over and finish the opposite 
side. Next return the casting and bolt it down, 
then finish planing the guide-ways, but before 
doing this swing the block or head containing the 
tool-post inward at its lower end about half an inch 
and toward the side you intend to plane. Next 
unscrew the nuts on each side of the second head, 
upon which are the raised guide-ways, and swing 
it inward also at the lower end to the angle re- 
quired while planing the said guide way. On one 
side of this second head is a mark made at right 
angles with the guide-ways within it, and across 
the centre of a pivot on which the head swings, 
while on one side of the slide that moves longi- 
tudinally on the cross-head an index is made show- 
ing the various degrees on which the mark on the 
second head may be set while planing on an angle. 
After the two nuts on its outer sides are screwed 
up you will finish planing one side of the guide- 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 33 

ways with a tool shaped for that special purpose. 
Next finish planing the outer surface up to the 
bottom of the guide-way. Then you will move the 
sliding head over to the other side of the ways, and 
swing the front and second head in an opposite 
direction, as before, and set up the screws over the 
swinging block that holds the tool-post, and the two 
nuts at the sides of the second head, and finish the 
opposite side of the guide-way and the lower sur- 
faces up to the bottom of the said guide-way to the 
exact height of the one on the opposite side. And 
you will plane all of these surfaces as smooth as 
possible. 

31. Note. 

In planing metals, especially thin cast-iron sur- 
faces, it is always necessary to plane over a cut on 
both sides, before finishing, either for the outside 
or scales. Being harder than the inside, the mo- 
ment the scale is taken off the piece springs through 
the expansion of the scale on the opposite side. 
Hence the necessity of planing both sides before 
finishing either. 

32. Gear-cutting. 

In cutting gears they are reckoned a certain 
number of teeth to the inch, measuring across the 



34 THE BOSTOH MACHINIST. 

diameter to a certain line which is marked on the 
face or sides of the gear with a tool. This line is 
one half the depth of the teeth from the outer di- 
ameter. That is, if the teeth of the gear are two 
tenths of an inch deep, this line would be one 
tenth of an inch from the edge, and is called the 
pitch-line. 

33- Depth of Teeth. 

Every gear cut with a different number of teeth 
to the inch should be cut of a depth to the pitch- 
line to correspond with the number of teeth to the 
inch. This is called proportion. Therefore, if you 
cut a gear eight to the inch, the depth to the pitch- 
line should be one eighth of an inch, and the whole 
depth of the tooth should be two eighths. Again, 
if you cut a gear twelve to the inch, the depth to 
pitch-line should be one twelfth of an inch, and the 
whole depth of tooth two twelfths. And again, if 
you cut a gear twenty to the inch, the depth to 
pitch-line should be one twentieth of an inch, while 
the whole depth should be two twentieths, and so 
on, ad infinitum. 

34. Measuring to Find the Number of Teeth. 

To find the size a certain gear should be for a 
certain number of teeth is an easy matter if you 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 35 

study carefully these rules. If you want a gear 
with thirty-two teeth, and eight to the inch, it 
should be four inches, measuring across the diame- 
ter to the pitch-line, and the two eighths outside of 
the pitch-line would make it four inches and two 
eighths. Again, if you want a gear with forty teeth, 
and ten to the inch, it should measure across the 
diameter to pitch-line four inches, and the two 
tenths outside the pitch-line w^ould make the whole 
diameter four inches and two tenths. And again, 
if you want a gear with eighty teeth, and twenty to 
the inch, it should measure to the pitch-line, across 
the diameter, four inches, and the two twentieths 
outside the pitch-line would make it four inches 
and two twentieths, and these examples will form a 
rule for the measurement of all except bevel-gears. 

35. Bevel-gears. 

These are turned a certain bevel to correspond 
with each other, according to the angle upon which 
the shafts driven by them are set. For instance, if 
two shafts are set upon an angle of ninety degrees, 
the surfaces of the faces of these gears will stand at 
an angle of forty-five degrees. To get the surface 
of these gears in turning them put a straight edge 
across the face. Then set your bevel on an angle 
of forty-five degrees, and try the face ot the teeth 



36 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

by placing the bevel on the straight edge. After 
turning the face of the teeth square the outer 
diameter by the face of the teeth ; and to get the 
size to which you wish to cut measure from the 
centre of the face of the teeth. Thus, if a bevel- 
gear is six inches in diameter, and the face of the 
teeth is one inch, you will measure from the centre 
of the face, and find it is five inches. On this line 
you calculate the number of teeth to the inch, and 
if you want a gear with twenty teeth, and ten to 
the inch, it should measure two inches across the 
face to the centre of the surface of the teeth ; and 
if the face of the teeth were one inch in length the 
diameter of the gear would be three inches, and 
the inside of the teeth would measure only one 
inch. Again, if you want to cut a gear with forty 
teeth, and ten to the inch, it would measure four 
inches to the centre of the teeth on the surface. 
And if the surface of the teeth were one inch long the 
diameter of the gear would be five inches, while it 
would only measure three inches inside the teeth. 
These examples will form a rule for all bevel-gears. 

Worm-gears. 

In making these the teeth should at first be cut 
on centers having an index as shown on page 69, 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 37 

and with a cutter about the size and shape of the 
screw or worm that is to move or feed the gear, 
and it should also be cut on an angle to correspond 
with the pitch of the worm that is feed the gear. 
The next operation is to place the gear on an arbor 
with one end made like a lathe-tool. This arbor 
is to be made on a right angle, and the round end 
is to stand upright or in a perpendicular position, 
while the opposite end is held in the tool-post of 
a lathe. The gear is then to run freely like a 
loose pulley on this arbor and is finished with a 
hob, and this hob is made the same size, and its 
teeth should be the same shape, as the worm or 
screw that is to move it ; and this hob may be 
made of one piece, and its teeth are made about 
midway between its ends, one of which is used to 
hold a dog, and its ends are turned below the size 
of the bottom of the teeth of this hob, which is 
made similar to a tap ; it may also be made short 
and have a hole through it and be keyed to an 
arbor, and this arbor should be long enough, so as 
not to run against the face-plate that drives it. The 
gear is then moved against this hob and cut there- 
with until its teeth are finished to the desired shape. 
The centres on the aforesaid arbor to which the 
hob is keyed should be countersunk very large in 
order to prevent breaking the centres of the lathe 



38 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

in which it is run by the lateral or side pressure 
against them while finishing the geai\ 

36. The Different Styles of Tiling. 

To file a surface true it is necessary on com- 
mencing to squeeze the file tightly between your 
third and fourth fingers ai^d the palm of your 
hand, until you become used to it. Your position 
in filing should be half left face to your work, with 
the middle of your right foot fifteen inches behind 
your left heel ; and to file your work true or 
square it is necessary to reverse your work often, 
as by this means you are enabled to see the whole 
surface you are filing, and also to see, while filing, 
whether you are filing true or not. Where, how- 
ever, your work is so heavy that you cannot re- 
verse it, you had better file first to the right, and 
then to the left, as by this means you can plainly 
see the file-marks, and this again assists you in 
filing true. 

37. To File a Square Hole. 

To file a hole square it is necessary to reverse 
the work very often. A square file should first be 
used, and the holes finished with either a diamond- 
shaped file or a half-round one. This leaves the 
corners square, as they properly should be, 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 39 

38. Draw-filing and Finishing. 

To draw-file a piece of work smoothly and 
quickly it is best to first draw-file it with a me- 
dium fine file, and finish with a superfine file. 
After doing this polish the work with dry emery- 
paper, and then with emery-paper and oil. 

39. Lining Boxes with Babbitt Metal. 

To line boxes properly, so as to insure their 
filling every time, it is necessary to heat the box 
nearly red-hot, or at least hot enough to melt the 
metal. Then smoke the shaft where the metal is 
to be poured upon it. This insures its coming out 
of the box easily after it is cold. After smoking 
the shaft put it into the box or boxes, and draw 
some putty around the ends of them for the pur- 
pose of stopping them, taking care not to press 
upon it, for if you do it will go into the box, and 
fill a place that ought to be filled with metal ; and 
in the meantime your metal ought to be heated, 
and after you have poured it let the box stand till it 
is nearly cold ; drive out your shaft, and it is done. 

40. Making Lining-metal. 

Melt in a crucible one and a half pounds of cop- 
per, and while the copper is melting melt in a ladle 
twenty-five pounds of tin and three of antimony 



40 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



nearly red-hot. Pour the two together, and stir 
until nearly cool. This makes the finest kind of 
lining-metal. 

41. Putting Machines Together. 

In putting machines together no part should be 
finished except where it is necessary to make a fit, 
as it is sometimes the case that machinery is mis- 




Tool for Cutting Wire, 
calculated, and by finishing it would be spoiled, 
while if it were not it might be saved by slight 
alterations in design. And again, in finishing cer- 
tain parts before you get a machine together you 
are unknowingly finishing parts not necessary to be 
finished, and making them of a shape anything but 
desirable. This rule, however, is not intended to 
apply to machinery being made to detail drawings. 

42. Working Steel for Tools. 

In working steel for tools great care should be 
taken to hammer all sides alike, for if one side is 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 41 

hammered more than another it will cause it to 
spring in hardening. Again, steel, when being 
hammered, should be heated as hot as it will stand 
until finishing, and should then be hammered until 
almost black-hot, for the reason that it sets the 
grain of the steel finer, and gives the tool a better 
edge. The reason for heating the steel so hot 
while hammering is simply because it makes the 
steel tougher when hardened, and softer when 
annealed ; while if it were worked at a low red 
heat the continued percussive shocks of the ham- 
mer would so harden it as to make it almost im- 
possible to anneal it, and at the same time render 
it brittle when hardened. 

43. Annealing Steel. 

In annealing steel it should be heated as slowly 
as possible to a red heat, but never hot enough to 
scale, and should then have three hours or more 
" to cool in." A piece of steel that is heated hot 
enough to scale can never be annealed well without 
working over, and is always rendered glassy, and bad 
to work. To prove this take a steel shaft and heat 
it in several places hot enough to scale, and in sev- 
eral others to alow reel heat. Allow it to cool, and 
when you turn it you will see at once that the 
places heated hot enough to scale are considerably 



42 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

harder than those heated properly. All tools that 
are required to be hardened without springing, as 
cutters and reamers, should be turned to about 
one sixty-fourth of an inch of their size, and then 
annealed before finishing. This takes the strains 
out, so that when they are heated for the purpose 
of hardening they will not spring. 

44 . Water-annealing. 

Heat the steel to a red heat, and let it lie a few 
minutes, until nearly black-hot, then throw it into 
soap-suds. Steel used in this way may be annealed 
softer than by putting it in the ashes on the forge. 

45. Hardening Steel Tools of the Various Kinds. 

All steel tools should be hardened at a low red 
heat, or the lowest heat at which they will harden, 
and the larger a piece of steel is the greater the 
heat required to harden it. This is on account of 
its taking longer to cool, for the moment a large 
body of heated steel is plunged into the water the 
steam arising from the surface of the steel blows 
the water away from it, and thereby causes it to 
take more time in cooling. For instance, an anvil 
heated red-hot and thrown into a hogshead of water 
would, instead of hardening, blow the water away 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 43 

from it and cool slowly, until the water boiled, 
and when taken out would be as soft as before it 
was heated. Hence the necessity of hardening 
anvils under a jet of water, or a waterfall. Very 
small tools, as needles and centre-drills, penknives 
and lancet-blades, should be hardened in oil, or in 
hot water, as by cooling in cold water they cool too 
quickly, and are either rendered brittle, or cracked, 
so as to be worthless. This is also the case in 
hardening springs — they are almost invariably 
broken when hardened in cold water, and there- 
fore should be hardened in oil. I have a razor 
which, being too soft, I hardened in oil — after 
being concaved — without springing in the least, 
and it is now as good a razor as I ever used. A 
piece of steel for a tool of any kind should never 
be heated hot enough to raise scales on it, except 
where it is so large that it will not harden without ; 
for steel when hardened at that heat is rendered 
coarse in grain, and brittle, and you may draw the 
temper of it to a straw-color, and it will still break 
more easily than a piece hardened at a low red 
heat and not drawn at all, and at the same time 
the piece that is heated hot enough to scale, and 
drawn, will be softer than the piece hardened 
properly. Hence it is necessary to take great care 
in hardening steel for tools. 



44 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

46. Dipping Tools When Hardening. 

To harden a penknife-blade, lancet, razor, chisel, 
gouge-bit, plane, spoke-shave, iron-shaving knife, 
three- and four-square files, and round and flat files, 
dip them endwise or perpendicularly. This keeps 
them straight, which would not be the case w 7 ere 
they dipped or put into the water otherwise 

47. Dipping a Half-round Reamer. 

To dip a half-round reamer, or any tool that is 
solid and half round, dip it with the half-round side 
twenty degrees leaning towards the water. This 
hardens it nearly straight. It is necessary here to 
remark that the surface of any piece of steel that is 
half round has half as much again surface on the 
half-round side to be hardened as the flat side has, 
and the contraction of the steel being equal, accord- 
ing to the surface, the necessity of clipping the half- 
round side at an angle is apparent. That is, a half- 
round surface tending to one point, which is or has 
once and a half the surface or power of contraction 
as the flat side. This contraction is w r hat draws a 
piece of steel to one side, and makes it spring. 

48. Dipping a Fluted, Reamer Properly. 

Dip it perpendicularly to a short distance beyond 
the flutmg — that is to say, about half an inch, and 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 45 

withdraw and return it several times. This hardens 
all the lips, and prevents its cracking off at the 
water's edge, which is the case when a piece of 
steel is dipped in to a certain depth, and allowed 
to cool without moving. Arbors or mandrels are 
often broken off at the ends in this way, without 
the workman's knowing what caused them to crack. 

49. Tempering Tools. 

Drawing the temper of tools is usually clone in 
a charcoal flame, and to draw the temper of a tool 
properly the thickest part, or the part not requir- 
ing any temper, should be held toward the fire, 
and in the meantime should be often wiped with 
a piece of waste or a rag dipped in oil. The oil 
keeps the temper even, and prevents its drawing 
more in one place than another. And in drawing 
the temper of any tool it should be drawn very 
slowly, — otherwise it will run too far ere you are 
aware of it. Lancet-blades and razors should be 
drawn to a straw-color. Knife-blades and chisels 
should be drawn to a copper or almost red color. 
Plane-irons, shaving-knives, and shoemakers' knives 
the same temper. Cold chisels and stone-drills 
should be drawn to a dark blue. Fluted reamers 
should only be drawn to a straw-color on the end, 
as they never break elsewhere, and keep their size 



46 THE BOSTOK MACHINIST. 

longer by leaving the lips hard. Half-round or 
tapering reamers, also taps, dies, and drills, should 
be drawn to a straw-color. Jigs and gauges, also 
common lathe-tools, need no drawing, being tem- 
pered enough when merely hardened. 

50. Fancy or Special Tool Making. 

Probably no profession among the fine arts is 
more " scientific," or requires greater care, than 
the art of gun, and watch, or fine special tool mak- 
ing, and it is safe to say that not one machinist in 
five hundred will make a good tool-maker. We 
will now commence on — 

51. To Make a Collet or Drill-socket. 

In order to make these tools properly first centre 
and square the ends of a piece of steel that you 




A Collet or Drill-socket. 

intend to make it from, and have the piece of steel 
three eighths of an inch longer than it is to be 
when finished ; then turn the end that is intended 
to fit a certain lathe or upright drill where it is to 
be used, leaving it a sixteenth larger than it is to be 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 47 

when finished. Next turn the outer end in order 
that it may be run within a back-rest. Then 
screw the shank-end into the jaws of a chuck on 
an engine-lathe, and the outer end within the slides 
of a back-rest, said rest to be screwed to the ways 
of the lathe, and screw the still centre into the 
outer end of the piece intended for the collet. Then 
screw the slides within the back-rest inward until 
they touch the collet ; but before setting the piece 
to be drilled be sure that the centres are set in a 
line, or so they will turn a piece of steel or shafting 
perfectly straight. Having got your work in posi- 
tion, drill a hole in the outer end in size the same 
as the small end of the shanks of the drills to be 
fitted to it. Now with a tapering and fluted reamer 
you will ream the hole nearly to the size required 
and finish by the hand, holding the socket within 
a vice. Unless you do this, the hole will not 
be reamed straight, as no lathe was ever made 
having its spindles on a perfect line. Now make 
an arbor long enough when fitted to the collet to 
extend six inches beyond the outer end of the 
collet, and have this outer end turned straight its 
whole length. Next put the arbor into the collet, 
then put its shank-end and the arbor within it on 
the centres of a lathe, and with a square-end tool 
try the arbor near the outer end of the collet to see 



48 THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 

if it runs true ; if not, cut the shank-end on one 
side with a countersink placed within a chuck and 
the arbor on the still centre ol a drill-lathe, and 
continue this cutting until the arbor near the collet 
is perfectly true. In doing this cutting it may be 
necessary to square off the shank-end of the arbor 
so as to nearly square the countersunken centre 
out. This occurs only when the hole is drilled by 
a boy, as I have seen them drilled in spindles for 
lathes. It is better, however, to drill the hole in a 
collet or a spindle below size, and then bore the 
hole with a tool before reaming nearly to the size 
required before reaming it, as it saves time both in 
reaming and in cutting the side of its centre to get 
the hole true. Before turning or fitting the collet 
redrill the centre at its shank-end with one or more 
larger drills than the centre-drill used before it was 
gouged or cut to one side, as these drills, being 
somewhat larger, will follow the countersink, this 
being necessary in turning the shank tapering in a 
lathe with the still centre set over to one side. As 
the point of the centre will follow or be guided by 
this hole, you cannot turn the shank true if this 
hole is not true with the countersink. After this is 
done, and with arbor within the collet, turn it to 
fit the lathe or upright drill where it is to be used. 
And then turn another chip off about a thirty- 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 49 

second of an inch, or enough to allow the end to 
enter the key-way in the spindle about three eighths 
of an inch, and finish the outer or drill end. Next 
with a small cutter mill off two sides of the shank- 
end so it will enter said key-way. This key-way in 
a collet begins at the end of the hole therein and is 
cut through solid metal. 

52. Making Arbors. 

Arbors upon which gears, pulleys, or other work 
is turned should at first be centered, drilled, and 
countersunk very lightly and then have the ends 
squared, taking out all of the countersink, unless, 
however, the ends are true before they were counter- 
sunk, for if the ends of an arbor were tapering the 
countersink would run to one side of the hole and 
the arbor would wear to the side where the coun- 
tersunken part is shortest. The lip or lips on a • 
countersink should be turned to fit a triangular 
gauge, and the centres on which an arbor is turned 
should be turned to fit this gauge, and the size of the 
countersink on the ends of an arbor should, in order 
to have it wear well, be one third the size of the 
ends of an arbor of any size when finished. Before 
turning an arbor ends next the countersunken part 
should be cut slightly under in order to prevent the 
sink from being bruised when driven out or in by a 



50 THE BOSTON* MACHINIST. 

boy or a cheap workman. The ends should then be 
turned about a twentieth of an inch below the size 
of the arbor when finished, and from the ends the 
breadth of the dog that is to drive it. Then round 
the corners off on its ends and file a place for the 
set-screw. Next harden and draw ends to a straw- 
color, and next grind the countersunken ends with 
emery, and oil on the dead centre of the lathe you 
intend to turn it on. Then turn it throughout its 
length a fiftieth of an inch above size, and then turn 
one of its ends to fit the gauge or wheel to be turned 
on it, and no farther from said end than the length 
of the hole within the wheel you intend to turn. 
The reason for this is after an arbor has been 
used a few hours it will be found to either have 
sprung or have the centres worn to one side ; then 
that portion that you have left above size may be 
either turned or ground to size. Arbors to be 
ground should first be turned a twentieth of an 
inch at midway from the ends above size, as they 
will spring when they are hardened ; it may be well, 
however, in order to save grinding to turn them at 
the ends nearly clown to size, and leave them larger 
at midway between the ends. Arbors to be ground 
should be hardened throughout their length and 
have the ends drawn to a straw-color, while the 
body, or all but the ends, may be drawn to a dark 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 51 

blue or almost a red color, the ends being left 
harder in order to make them wear longer. 

53. Eccentric Arbors. 

Arbors upon which eccentrics are to be turned 
should have the centres drilled five eighths of an 
inch deep, and with drills of two sizes, as the first 
will run to one side from the pressure against its 
end. Then it should be countersunk very lightly 
and the ends squared, and then be turned straight 
from end to end about a fiftieth above size. Then 
the countersink should be squared or cut nearly 
out, and the ends filed very smooth, and be coated 
with sulphate of copper, which is blue vitriol, in 
order that the marks to be scratched can be plainly 
seen. Then with a tool having a sharp end and 
held within the tool-post draw a small line on one 
side from end to end. Next place it upright in a 
vise and insert within the hole the shank- end of the 
drill that it was drilled with. Now place a straight- 
edge against the line drawn on the outside of the 
arbor and against each side of the drill, and scratch 
two lines to meet at the one drawn on its outside, 
Next measure the throw desired from the side of 
this drill, and make a line across and at a right 
angle with the other two lines. Then deduct one 
half the size of the drill, and make another line in- 



52 THE BOSTON- MACHINIST. 

side the one you have drawn and toward the centre. 
Then with a sharp centre punch mark it lightly on 
the inside line and between the other two lines 
that run from the outside line to the sides of the 
drill, but before you drill this second hole for the 
eccentric make semicircles with dividers across the 
lines running from the drill to the line on the out- 
side of the arbor, using the mark made with the 
centre-punch as a centre to strike the semicircles 
from, and use these four lines as guides for the 
centre-drill. Next countersink the centres and 
turn the arbor to the size required, and then coun- 
tersink the holes to be used for turning the eccen- 
tric quite large, and if the sink has not room without 
running into the other hole square from the end of 
the arbor until you can sink it to the desired size. 
Next turn down the ends for the dog and file a 
place at each end for the set-screw ; take off the 
corners ; then harden and draw the temper to a 
straw-color. The arbor may if you desire be turned 
to size before the holes (eccentric) are set off. 

54. Making Drills. 

.There are numerous styles of drills. Every 
drill should be made straight on the sides of the 
lips for at least half an inch from the end. This 
prevents their running under or to one side. To 



54 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

this rule, however, we will except very small drills, 
as they would, if made in this way, soon get broken 
by the small particles of iron-dust that force their 
way between the sides of the drill and the sides of 
the hole being drilled. 

55. Spiral Drills. 

To make a spiral drill anneal it and turn it one 
fiftieth of an inch larger than you intend it to be 
when finished. Then heat it again,* and anneal it 
in a perpendicular position, either by putting it 
into lime or ashes in an upright position, or dipping 
it into soap-suds. After doing this turn the shank 

* The reason for again heating a piece of steel after par- 
tially turning it is simply because it is often hammered 
harder on one side than the other, and the turning it true 
frequently takes more stock on one side than the side oppo- 
site. This leaves the side from which the lightest chip is 
taken much harder than the other, and this is the principal 
cause of a reamer or other slender tool's springing when it 
is hardened. Again, annealing tools in a perpendicular 
position is better than to lay them on their sides, for the 
reason that they sometimes lie with their weight at each 
end, and this will always spring a reamer or other slender 
tool. Almost every one has seen a board lie with its weight 
resting upon its two ends, and that its own weight caused 
it to settle in the middle. Upon this principle a piece of 
steel will settle when annealing if not placed in a proper 
position. But if dipped into the water perpendicularly 
the result will be that when it is hardened it will spring 
or strain itself to its proper position, 



THE BOSTOK MACHINIST. 55 

to fit a certain collet, socket, or chuck (the names 
are various in different shops), and after doing this 
you may turn the point or end to the desired shape 
and size. Then, measuring from that point, turn it 
tapering, one hundredth of an inch smaller for 
every two inches of the drill's length, and the turn- 
ing part is done. Spiral drills are now left above 
size and are ground after being hardened to size. 

56. Cutting the Spiral Grooves. 

This is done in a machine made for the purpose, 
which contains a spindle, which revolves slowly 
while the grooves are being cut. This spindle also 
slides slowly while grooves are being cut, and con- 
tains a screw, upon the end of which is fastened a 
chuck for holding the drill. You will put your 
drill into this chuck, and raise the sliding block 
which is beneath the drill until it touches the drill, 
taking care not to raise it too high, so that the 
drill shall be raised above the centre of the chuck 
into which it is screwed. Having adjusted your 
machine, you will put in a cutter, and groove your 
drills as follows : For drills one eighth of an inch 
in diameter cut them one to the inch, calculating 
as you would in cutting a screw to an engine- 
lathe, and the depth of the groove should be cut 
to within one hundredth of an inch of the centre 



56 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

of the drills. For drills one half an inch in di- 
ameter one and a half to the inch, and down to 
within a sixty-fourth of the centre. Drills one 
inch in diameter should be cut one to the inch, 
and down to a thirty-second of the centre. The 
index plate will give you the two opposite points 
from which to commence cutting. 

The thickness of the cutter should be one half 
the diameter of Ihe drill, and the edge of the cutter 
or teeth should be rounded to suit the various sizes 
of drills, as may be required. (See Appendix.) 

57. Flat Pril/s for Chucking. 

Such drills should be made of three lengths 
only. Thai is, when a lot is made for a shop, all 
sixes of three fourths of an inch and above should 
be made thirteen inches long. All sizes from three 
fourths down to three eighths of an inch ten 
inches, and sizes below that live inches long. 
This saves Ihe time usually lost in moving your 
puppet-head when drilling your hole with several 
drills of different sizes. As these drills are made to 
be followed by certain-sized reamers, they should 
be made exactly one hundredth of an inch, at their 
ends, smaller than the reamer designed to follow 
them, and should be tapering, so as to measure, at 
a distance of three inches from the ends, one 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. Di 

hundredth of an inch smaller than al the end. 
Then taper the corners. Draw-file the edges, 
the same shape as turned by the lathe. Such 
drills should never have their edges filed square, 
as they are made in some country shops, for it is 
impossible to drill two holes of a size with drills 
made in this way. The more nearly square such 
drills are made on their cuds the longerthey will 
wear, II is necessary, however, to take off the 
comers. In hardening such drills it is not neces- 
sary to draw the temper, as they never break, and 
it is my philosophy never to draw the temper of a 
tool that is not liable to break, for the harder they 
are the longer they will wear. 

58. Tap and Reamer Wrenches. 

Tap and reamer wrenches should be made 
square in the middle, and should have a square hole 
punched 01 cu1 through the square to hold the 

head of the lap or reamer, while (he (aids should 

be turned round to within half an inch of the hole 
in the middle. 

59. Proportions for Tap- and Rea/mer-tvrenches. 

Very small taps should be used in file-handles. 
Wrenches for laps and reamers from one eighth 
of an inch to five sixteenths should be five inches 



58 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

long, with a square in the middle half an inch in 
diameter, and a square hole cut through it three 
sixteenths of an inch in diameter. The ends are to 
be turned rounding, half an inch at extreme ends, 
and five sixteenths near the whole in the middle. 
The extreme end should be rounded with a hand- 
tool and polished so as not to hurt the hands of 
the user. 

60. Tap- and Reamer -wrenches, Size Ttvo. 

Wrenches for taps and reamers from five 
sixteenths to seven sixteenths should be ten 
inches long, with a square in their middle five 
eighths in diameter, and a square hole through 
square five sixteenths diameter. Ends round, 
five eighths by seven sixteenths. 

61- Tap- and Reamer-wrenches, Size Three. 

Wrenches for taps and reamers from seven 
sixteenths to five eighths should be fifteen inches 
long. Square in middle, seven eighths. Hole 
through square, seven sixteenths. Ends turned 
rounding, three fourths by nine sixteenths. 

62. Wrenches for Taps and Reamers, Size Four. 

Wrenches for taps and reamers from five 
eighths to thirteen sixteenths should be twenty- 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 



59 




A Screw for Great Strength. A Y-thread Screw. 




A Square-thread Screw. 



60 THE BOSTOK MACHINIST. 

four inches long. Square in middle, seven eighths 
by one and one eighth inches. Hole through 
largest way five eighths. Square ends turned 
seven eighths by eleven sixteenths. 

63. Wrenches for Taps and Reamers, Size Five. 

Wrenches for taps and reamers from thirteen 
sixteenths to one inch, thirty inches long. Square 
in middle, seven eighths by one and three eighths. 
Hole in square, thirteen sixteenths. Ends round, 
seven eighths by three fourths. 

64. Wrenches for Taps and Reamers, Size Six. 

Wrenches for taps and reamers from one inch 
to one and a fourth, forty inches long. Square in 
middle, one inch and five eighths by one inch. Hole 



timmtwmtmmmmi 




A Tap with Sliding Guide. 

through square, one inch. Ends turned, one inch 
by seven eighths. Tap- and reamer-wrenches are 
now generally made with adjustable sliding jaws 
that are moved by a screw so they will fit many 
sizes of taps or reamers. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 61 

65. Making Taps. The Turning. 

This is a process requiring care, and every tap 
should have immediately under its head or square 
for the wrench a place turned exactly the size of 
the outside of the thread. You have then no 
trouble in getting the size of the threads when 
they have an odd number of flutes in them. 
Every tap should also be exactly the size of 
the bottom of the thread, from the termination 
of the thread, which is usually about midway 
to within about half an inch of the head or 




A Standard Thread-gauge. 

square. This you will leave to get the size of the 
bottom thread. It is a foolish error in tool-makers 
to make a tap stiff above the termination of the 
thread, for the reason that when in tapping a hole 
you come to a sudden stop the tap is sure to break, 
when, if it were turned straight from the terminus 
of the thread nearly up to the head, it would twist 
instead of breaking. 



62 THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 

66. Proportions of Screivs. 

The sizes marked below one fourth of an inch in 
this schedule are in proportion to the strength of 
the screw, and as they are mostly used with a handle 
similar to a file-handle, but octagonal in shape, 
f think them fully coarse-threaded enough for all 
purposes. The numbers marked coarser than seven 
to the inch are calculated for square-thread screws. 

Screws of one sixteenth of an inch in diameter, 
fifty threads to the inch. 

Screws of one eighth of an inch in diameter, 
forty to the inch. 

Screws of three sixteenths of an inch in diameter, 
thirty to the inch. 

Screws of one fourth of an inch in diameter, 
twenty-five to the inch. 

Screws of five sixteenths of an inch in diameter, 
twenty to the inch. 

Screws of three eighths of an inch in diameter, 
seventeen to the inch. 

Screws of seven sixteenths of an inch in diam- 
eter, fourteen to the inch. 

Screws of half an inch in diameter, twelve to the 
inch. 

Screws nine sixteenths of an inch in diameter, 
twelve to the inch. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 63 

Screws five eighths of an inch in diameter, eleven 
to the inch. 

Screws eleven sixteenths of an inch in diameter, 
eleven to the inch. 

Screws three fourths of an inch in diameter, ten 
to the inch. 

Screws thirteen sixteenths of an inch in diameter, 
ten to the inch. 

Screws seven eighths of an inch in diameter, nine 
to the inch. 

Screws fifteen sixteenths of an inch in diameter, 
nine to the inch. 

Screws one inch in diameter, eight to the 
inch. 

Screws one and one sixteenth inches in diameter, 
eight to the inch. 

Screws from one and one eighth to one and one 
fourth inches in diameter, seven to the inch. 

Screws from one and one eighth to one and 
one fourth inches in diameter, seven to the 
inch. 

Screws from one and five to one and seven 
sixteenths inches in diameter, six to the inch. 

Screws from one and a half to one and eleven 
sixteenths in diameter, five to the inch. 

Screws from one and three fourths to two inches 
in diameter, four to the inch. 



64 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



9 

H3 




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02 










THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



65 



67. Making Taps. 

In cutting a tap for V-shaped threads they should 
be finished with a tool made to fit a triangular gauge, 
and if they are cut sharp the depth of the thread 
should be equal to the pitch. This means if a tap is 
cut ten to the inch it should be cut a tenth of an 
i:i:h deep. This rule applies to taps of any pitch, and 
all taps should.be cut to a standard thread-gauge. 
This is a piece of steel with a number of threads cut 
on one edge or end of it with a standard tap or hob, 
and is marked to show the number of threads to 




Rhodes Threading-tool with Stock. 

the inch. By using this gauge a tap may be cut with- 
out having the thread lean to one side like teeth in 
a carpenter's saw. Another standard gauge is made 
solid and has a thread cut through it, and used to 
keep the tap or a screw to a standard size. After 
the thread on a tap is cut it should not be polished 



66 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

with emery, as this causes it to glaze between the 
threads, and this glazing will make it cut or move 
much harder than if the threads were not covered 
with a glaze. Taps to be used in a lathe raid hav- 
ing coarse threads should have the taper from the 
ends double the length of those used by the hands, 
and the length of the thread should be somewhat 
longer also than those used by hands ; then as the 
lips become dull they can be ground sharp. The 
size of these taps above the thread should be the 




A Chaser with Stock, Tool-post Block, etc. 
(P. & W. Co.) 

same as at the bottom of the threads, and the 
length of the tap above the thread should double 
the length of the taper ; then a half dozen nuts can 
be tapped before it is taken from the jaws of the 
chuck. The upper ends of these taps should be 
squared in order that they may be held without 
sore wing the jaws of the chuck dow r n too firmly. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 67 

In making a tap for cutting solid dies that are to be 
used for cutting coarse threads on rough unturned 
bolts or screws they should be made a fiftieth of an 
inch above the size that such bolts are supposed to 
measure, for the reason that round iron from which 
bolts and screws are made varies and is often larger 
than the size they are sold for. The same-sized tap 
should be used while tapping rough nuts for these 
bolts. 

68. Taps icitli Square-threads. 

Taps with square threads and designed for 
strength should be cut one half the depth of their 
pitch. Therefore, if your thread is five to the inch, 
you will cut it one tenth of an inch deep. Your 
threads being five to the inch, there would be a 
space between the threads one tenth of an inch, 
and the thread being one tenth wide and one 
tenth deep, would form the square thread. Square 
threads for wear, however, should be cut three 
fourths the depth of their pitch. 

69. Mongrel, or Ualf-V, Half-square Threads. 

These threads, made for great wear, are difficult 
to cut. They should be cut the depth of their 
pitch, and for extra great w r ear, w T here a screw is 
required to be kept accurate for a long time, — such 



68 THE BOStOK MACHINIST. 

as the lead-screw for a lathe, — they should be cut 
once and one half the depth of their pitch. The 
outside of the thread, and also the bottom of the 
thread, should be in width one fourth of the thread's 
pitch. Therefore, if you were cutting a screw five 
to the inch, it should be one twentieth in width 
on the outside, and one twentieth at the bottom 
of the thread. 

70. Fluting Taps. 

Every tap should be fluted with the teeth a little 
hooking on the face. That is, in striking a line 
through the middle of the tap, on the end, the flute 
or groove should be inside that line, while the flute 
at the outside of the thread is exactly on the line. 
The back side of the teeth, however, may lean a 
little outside of the centre, but not enough to allow 
the dust to ride over when backing out the tap. 
It is needless to say that it is impossible in steel 
to cut a coarse thread full with a tap that has the 
faces of its teeth leaning backwards without tear- 
ing out half the threads, for taps made with the 
faces leaning backwards, do not cut, they merely 
stretch and tear the thread to its size instead of 
cutting it. It is, in fact, upon the principle of turn- 
ing a shaft with a square-end tool, with the point 
or end leaning downward. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



69 




70 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 71 



71. How to Go to Work 



Set your tap on the centres, and with a cutter or 
a planing-tool made round at the end, and the thick- 
ness of the end one fourth the diameter of the tap, 
plane or mill the faces of all the teeth one half the 
depth of the thread below the bottom of the thread. 
For instance, if a thread is an eighth of an inch 
deep, plane or mill it one sixteenth below the bot- 
tom of the thread. After planing all the faces or 
milling them all to their depth, plane or mill off the 
back sides of the teeth, leaving them once and a half 
the breadth of their pitch. Thus, if the pitch is ten, 
leave them a tenth, and a twentieth breadth. This 
leaves fully stock enough for strength, and the less 
bearing a tap has the more easily it turns. The back 
sides of the teeth should be finished with a cutter 
or planing-tool, made in thickness of the size of the 
tap. It is economical to have two taps for every 
thread, and have the first one small enough to cut 
only two thirds of the thread, and the second to 
finish. Taps for fine threads made in this way 
need but little taper at the end. They never go 
hard, and do not get broken half so often as when 
they are both of one size. Very large mongrel- 
thread taps should always be of two sizes at least, 
for the threads being so coarse, and there being so 



72 THE BOSTON MACHINI 

much metal to cut out, it would be almost impossible 
to cut the thread otherwise without tearing them. 
For hardening and tempering taps see articles on 
" Hardening and Tempering Tools." 

72. Fluted Reamers. 

Fluted reamers should first be turned to within 
a thirty-second of an inch of the required size, and 
then heated and allowed to cool in an upright posi- 
tion before finishing. This takes out the strains, 
and the hardness made in places by hammering 
out, so that they will not spring when heated for 
hardening. In fluting reamers merely fluting them 
with an odd number in view of preventing them 
from chattering is not sufficient. For when a 



A Fluted Taper Reamer. 

reamer chatters it jumps from lip to lip ; hence it is 
necessary to make the lips uneven. Flutes in ream- 
ers from one fourth to five eighths of an inch in 
diameter should be five. The number in reamers 
from five eighths to one inch should be seven. 
The number in reamers from one inch to one and 
a fourth should be nine. The number from one 
and a fourth to one and a half inches should be 
eleven. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



73 




THE BOSTON MACHINIST. To 

73. How to Make a Fluted Reamer. 

Have the head forged nearly to size required. 
Then make good centres in it, for these are neces- 
sary to keep it true. Turn it to within a thirty- 
second of the required size, then heat it and let it 
cool in an upright position. Then turn the part 
designed for the lips a sixty-fourth of an inch 
lamer than the size at which you intend to finish 
it, then turn a place in the middle of it five eighths 
long, and one twelfth of the reamers size smaller 
than its lips. This is the place to pene it straight 



A Fluted Shell Reamer. 

after hardening. After turning all but the upper 
part (which is to be turned after it is hardened and 
straightened) you commence fluting it by putting 
it on the centres, and if you flute it on a planer 
use a round-end tool one tenth of an inch in thick- 



76 THE BOSTON MACHIKIST. 

ness, and plane it down to the face of every lip, 
clown to the bottom of the place made for pening, 
and plane them so that in every other one of the 
lips the space between them will be shorter than 
that of the one preceding it. After doing this use 
a square-end tool, and plane off the back side of 
the lips up to within a thirty-second of an inch 
of the face. The faces of these lips should be 
planed straight with the centre. File the lips 
smooth, then harden it. For hardening it see 
articles on " Hardening and Tempering Tools. " 
Then pene it straight. Then turn the upper part 
to the size required and polish it. And then grind 
the lips down to size, and have them sharp, and it 
is finished. The flutes in reamers are now milled. 

74. Half-round Reamers. 

Half-round reamers should never be made in 
this age, but should be superseded by one with 
a single lip and made in the following style: Get a 
piece of steel, and have the head forged for a cer- 
tain wrench, and turn it tapering and perfectly 
round. Then put it on centres, and with a-small 
round-point tool plane or mill a groove through 
the whole length of it. One side of this groove 
forms the lip. Then from this groove plane or 
mill off a thirty second of an inch half-way round. 



THfi BOSTON MACHINIST. 77 

File up the face of the lips, on a line through the 
centre, on the end. Harden and temper. They 
should afterward be ground to proper shape. 

75. Rose Reamers. 

Rose reamers may be either hollow or solid : 
those of large sizes are usually hollow, and several 
sizes should have the holes through them of one 
size, so as to fit one shank. These reamers should 
be about three inches long, and have a slot cut 
across the centre at the inward end beyond the 
lips, and are supported by a pin through the shank 




A Fluted Reamer to be Used for Chucking, 
or shaft to which they are fitted. The lips of large 
rose reamers should be about ten to an inch, 
measured the same as gears are cut (see " Gear- 
cutting 1 '), and their lips may be backed off slightly 
to within an eighth of an inch from their faces, but 
never brought to a sharp edge like hand-reamers, 
as in chucking a hole it would ream larger on the 
outside than on the inside, and in order to ream 
a hole smooth the ends of the lips should be 
rounded and not cut square with a side-tool. The 
sides of the lips may be made slightly tapering for 



78 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

about three eighths of an inch from the end, and 
the taper should be brought to a sharp edge like 
the corners of the lips. With a reamer made in 
this way it will ream a hole as smooth as a hand- 
reamer, and it will keep its size five times longer 
than a hand-reamer. The inward end of a chuck- 
ing-reamer opposite the cutting-end may be some- 
what less in size than the end that does the cut- 
ting, or about one hundredth of an inch in a foot, 
for the reason that the centres of a lathe are never 
on a perfect line. These reamers should be straight, 
however, for about three fourths of an inch above 
the taper at the end. Small rose reamers of five 
eighths of an inch in size and below should have 
four lips, and very small ones only three ; these lips 
should be cut well up on the sides to prevent them 
from sticking ; their lips require no backing off. 

76. Counter-boring Tools. 

These tools should have a hole chucked at the 
cutting-end several sizes below the hole that is to 
guide the counter-boring tool. Then the guide at 
the cutting-end may be of many sizes, and fit many- 
sized holes, while that portion of these guides that 
enter the hole are to be all of one size, and should 
be fitted to drive lightly or so they can be wrung 
from the body of the tool and others inserted in 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 79 

their place to fit a hole of another size. The upper 
portion of these guides are turned up to a shoulder, 
and to about half an inch or less from the outside, 
or according to the size of the tool. This also gives 
the workman a better chance to file the cutting-end 
or lips to a perfect and true edge. The lips on their 
sides may be an inch or less in length, according to 
their diameter, and they should be milled out 
diagonally in order to give a shaving cut and also a 
better clearance for the chips. Above the lips large 
sizes may be turned one fourth less in size than 
the diameter of the lips ; these large ones usually 
have the shank-end fitted to a collet, while small 
ones must be solid or of one piece. 

77. Making Dies for Screiv-cutting. 

In making dies to be used in a screw-machine 
first get a piece of octagon steel that is annealed 
and about a sixteenth of an inch larger than it is 
to be when finished, and also large enough to be 
turned to fit the stock or die-holder. Then centre 
and square its ends. Next drill a hole through it 
from one end the size of the bottom of the thread 
on the tap you intend to use in tapping it. Next 
enlarge this hole to about a thirty-second of an 
inch larger than the outside of the thread on the tap 
to within an inch from the end within which the 



80 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



thread is to be. Then turn and fit it to the stock 
that is to hold it. Then with the tap held within a 
chuck and on a lathe and the end that is to be held 
within the stock is to be placed on the still or dead 
centre and tapped out. Then the lips are to be cut 
or milled on its front end and on its sides into the 
bottom of threads for about half an inch or less 
beyond the threads, according to the size it is 
tapped. And these lips should be three or more, 
according to the size of the tap used in tapping it. 
Of other kinds of dies to be held within a stock one 




Spring Threading Die with Collar. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 

is to be used with the hands and one kind is round 
and is held in a stock having handles, which across 
its centre should be made an inch larger than the 
die that is held with set-screws. This portion of the 
stock should be three fourths of an inch thick, and 
should be counter-bored five eighths of an inch deep 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 81 

from its surface. Then these dies should be an inch 
long and have three or more slots cut in them to form 
the lips, and before these slots are cut holes should 
be drilled through them nearly to the bottom of the 
threads, and these holes should be about one third 
the size of the hole within which the thread is cut, 
and the hole within which the thread is cut should 
be made tapering from the bottom of the thread 
about half-way through the die. This is done to 
make it cut on a line parallel with the sides of the 
screw. It can then be reversed if desired when the 
thread is to be cut up to a shoulder, or as in a stud 
that is larger than the screw. It is then broached 
out between the threads and enough filed from the 
lips to leave no film or bruise caused 
by said broach. Between these lips a 
thin slot is cut throughout the length 
of the die ; this is clone to spring the 
lips together as they become worn, and A f Soli i D l e 
the die should have small holes drilled stock. 
on opposite sides about an eighth of an inch deep 
for set-screws ; these holes should be drilled 
through the stock and into the die within it an 
eighth of an inch. 

Still another kind of dies are made to be used 
with the hands. These are oblong and square on 
their ends and sides. They are of two pieces and 




82 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 




Adjustable Threading Die and Head for a Bolt-cutter. 




Stocks, Taps, and Dies with Case. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 83 

are screwed together with a set-screw, and should 
be held within the stock while the thread is cut. 
These dies should, in order to have the threads 
cut parallel with the sides of a bolt or screw, be 
made about three fourths of an inch thick, and in 
making these they should first be planed to fit within 
the stock. Then they should be cut at both ends 
an eighth of an inch down from their faces on 
both sides an eighth of an inch from their ends. 
This leaves the ends half an inch thick, and is 
clone to save the stock that holds them from being 
too heavy. After the thread is cut at midway a 
space is filed to let the chips out and also to form 
four lips, and these spaces should be wide enough 
in large dies to leave the breadth between the ends 
of the thread not over a half inch, and these spaces 
should be filed tapering from the centre in order to 
let the chips out freely. These dies are intended 
for a stock having strips of thin steel screwed on 
both sides of the stock to secure the dies therein. 
Another way of making these dies is to cut a slot 
through each end to fit a raised surface or ways 
within the stock — and a stock of this kind requires 
two set-screws, one on either side, as it is impos- 
sible to mill for these ways up to a square corner. 



84 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 




Gang-mills. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 85 



78. Milling Tools or Cutters. 

All cutters having lips with a face or breadth of 
over three fourths of an inch should be cut so as 
to leave the front or cutting edge of the lips some- 
what hooked. This means if you draw a line across 
or through the centre on one end of a cutter having 
a diameter of six inches the cutting-edge will stand 
a sixteenth of an inch in front of said line. This 
will give the cutter a shaving cut instead of scrap- 
ing the met 1 o n chips from the piece of iron or steel 




Stem Cutter. 

that you design for use, and this principle is the 
same as in turning a shaft with a diamond-point 
tool. You would not think of setting the point of 
such a tool clown as low as the centres in your 
lathe. This principle, however, would not answer 
with thin cutters, for if the lips of such were cut to 
stand in front of this centre line the lips would get 
caught and be torn out, unless you were very care- 
ful when starting a cut. All cutters of one fourth 
of an inch in thickness or less should have a series 
of small holes drilled through them near their 



86 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



holes. This would to a certain extent prevent 
them from warping or becoming dished in shape 
when hardening. For this reason, the outer periph- 
ery being so much greater than that around the 
hole, the shrink would be accordingly so much 
greater, and by having the small holes through 
them their edges would become much harder than 
a plain surface. In drawing the temper of any but 
very thin cutters they should be drawn to a very 





Spiral Mill. 



An Angular Cutter. 



light straw-color, and very broad cutters require no 
drawing. Cutters having very coarse lips should 
be cut so as to have the bottom of each cut 
rounding in shape ; this leaves them much easier to 
clean. In large cutters the size of the round may 
be three sixteenths of an inch wide, and cutters 
with lips made in this way require less time in 
milling out than those having the lips cut sharp at 
the bottom of each lip, as you get the required 
space between them without the depth. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



87 



79. Proportionate Numbers of Lips in Different 
Sizes of Cutters. 

All cutters having the face or breadth of their 




Gang-mills. (Pratt & Whitney Co.) 

lips over three fourths of an inch should be cut in 
a spiral form, and should have the holes through 



88 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

them one five hundredth of an inch below the 
size required when finished, and those having a 
breadth of seven eighths of an inch and above 
should have their holes chambered a thirty-second 
of an inch above their sizes required to within three 
sixteenths of an inch from their ends. This is done 
to save time in grinding their holes to the size re- 
quired after they have been hardened. The pro- 
portionate number of lips to each size is described 
in the following tables herein enumerated : 

Cutters 6 inches in diameter should have 30 lips. 

Cutters 5 inches in diameter, 35 lips. 

Cutters 4 inches diameter, 40 lips. 

Cutters 3 inches diameter, 45 lips. 

Cutters 2 inches diameter, 50 lips. 

These sizes are for cutters having a breadth of 
lips one inch and above. 

Cutters 1^ inches diameter and 3/4 of an inch 
breadth, 38 lips. 

Cutters 1 inch diameter by 5/8 breadth, 25 lips. 

Cutters 3/4 of an inch diameter, 1/2 of an inch 
thick, 20 lips. 

Cutters 5/8 diameter, 1/2 X 3/8 X 1/4 thick, 
15 lips. 

Cutters 4 in diameter X 1/4 thick, 45 lips. 

Cutters 4 in diameter X 3/16 thick, 45 lips. 

Cutters 4 in diameter X 1/8 thick, 45 lips. 



THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 



3/32 thick, 70 lips. 
1/16 thick, 85 lips. 



Cutters 4 in diameter X 

Cutters 4 in diameter X 

Cutters 3 in diameter X 1/4 thick, 45 lips. 

Cutters 3 in diameter X 3/16 thick, 45 lips. 

Cutters 3 in diameter X 1/8 thick, 50 lips. 

Cutters 3 in diameter X 3/32 thick, 85 lips. 



FULL SIZE NO 2. 





Hollow Mill and Collar. 

Cutters 3 in diameter X 1/16 thick, 110 lips. 
Cutters 2 in diameter X 1/4 thick, 50 lips. 
Cutters 2 in diameter X 3/16 thick. 60 lips. 
Cutters 2 in diameter X 1/8 thick. 60 lips. 
Cutters 2 in diameter X 3/32 thick. 70 lips. 
Cutters 2 in diameter X 1/16 thick, 85 lips. 
Cutters 1/12 in diameter X 1/4 thick. 30 lips. 
Cutters 1/12 in diameter X 3/16 thick. 30 lips. 
Cutters 1/12 in diameter X 1/8 thick, 32 lips. 
Cutters 1/12 in diameter X 3/32 thick, 42 lips. 
Cutters 1/12 in diameter X 1/16 thick. 44 lips. 
Cutters 1 in diameter X 1 4 thick, 20 lips. 



90 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

Cutters 1 in diameter X 3/16 thick, 20 lips. 
Cutters 1 in diameter X 1/8 thick, 20 lips. 
Cutters 1 in diameter X 3/32 thick, 22 lips. 
Cutters 1 in diameter X 1/16 thick, 28 lips. 

80. Proportions of Broad Cutters. 

Cutters half an inch in diameter should be cut 
thirty to the inch, and contain fifteen teeth of one 
sixteenth of an inch deep. 

Cutters three fourths of an inch in diameter 
should be cut thirty-two to the inch, and contain 
twenty teeth of one fifteenth of an inch deep. 

Cutters one inch in diameter should be cut 
twenty-eight to the inch, and contain twenty-eight 
teeth, of one fourteenth of an inch deep. 

Cutters one and a half inches in diameter should 
be cut twenty-four teeth to the inch, and contain 
thirty side teeth, one twelfth of an inch deep. 

Cutters two inches in diameter should be cut 
twenty teeth to the inch, and contain forty teeth, 
cut one tenth of an inch deep. 

Cutters three inches in diameter should be six- 
teen to the inch, and contain forty-eight teeth, cut 
one eighth of an inch deep. 

Cutters four inches in diameter should be thir- 
teen to the inch, and contain fifty-two teeth, cut 
one sixth of an inch deep. 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 91 

Cutters five inches in diameter should be cut, 
eleven to the inch, and contain fifty-five teeth, cut 
one fifth of an inch deep. 

Cutters six inches in diameter should be cut ten 
to the inch, and contain sixty teeth, cut one fourth 
of an inch deep. The teeth of these cutters should 
always be cut hooking, and the large sizes should 
be left nearly a sixteenth of an inch thick at the 
edge. The outer surface of the cutter should be 
draw-filed nearly square with the faces, as they cut 
more smoothly than when filed too sharp. Harden 
and draw not, except for thin cutters. 

81. Punches and Dies. 

In making these tools first plane two sides and 
the edges of a block of steel from which a die is to 
be made in such a shape as to have it enter the 
jaws w T here it is to be held ; this shoe when in use 
is bolted to the bed-plate on a punching-machine 
and is secured in any desired position. Now you 
will make the die on its upper side as smooth as 
possible with filing and cover it with a coat of sul- 
phate of copper ; then if the die is to be made from 
a drawing first make a template from thin steel the 
exact size and shape shown on the drawing. Next 
place the template on the block so as to have the 
centre of the hole in the template come as near the 



92 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

centre of the block as possible and clamp the tem- 
plate to the die, then with a sharp point mark 
through the template distinctly the outlines of the 
hole cut through the template ; then with a drill of 
about three sixteenths of an inch in diameter drill 
the holes inside the lines and as near together as 
possible : then with a counterbore enlarge every 
second hole an eighth of an inch to within one 
third of an inch from the upper side ; then with a 
broach about a tenth of an inch thick and made 
tapering on the edges split the holes one into the 
other until the piece inside will drop out. Now 
with a small stem-cutter mill out the lower side to 
the sides and depth they were made with the coun- 
terbore ; then if the die is large enough mill the 
upper side out nearly to the lines you have marked. 
It will then be finished by filing to the lines, and 
the inside should be tapering so as to have the 
lower inside of the upper or cutting part about a 
hundredth of an inch larger than the edge at the 
upper surface. To save time in grinding the face 
of a die after it has become dull the upper side 
should be planed one fourth of an inch on its out- 
sides lower than the cutting part and up to within 
three eighths of an inch from the cutting-edges. 
In making very long or large dies for punching 
heavy metal they should be made shearing ; that 



THE BOSTON machinist. 93 

means they should be made at their opposite ends 
or extremities about an eighth of an inch lower 
than at midway on their cutting surface, in order 
to prevent whole pressure of the punch from com- 
ing upon the whole surface of the die at once, and 
thereby release the strain on the machine that does 
the work of punching. 

82. Next to make the Punch. 

And to do this first square the ends of the piece 
you are to make it from, and have the lower end 
filed very smooth ; and fit the upper end into the 
slide or socket that is to secure it ; then on its lower 
end put a coat of sulphate of copper or blue vitriol : 
this is done to have the marks to be made on the 
end show more plainly than they would if the end 
were left bright. Now place the die in a vise with 
its centre to correspond with the centre of the 
punch, and if you have room for a clamp fasten it 
into its proper position, and with a sharp point mark 
through the die on the end of the punch the desired 
outlines. Now place the shank or upper end of 
the punch within the jaws of a chuck, with an index 
attached to it if you have one, or if not a vise will 
answer, and with a small cutter mill down to the 
lines made on the end as near as you can, and 
longitudinally about half an inch from the end — 



94 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

except, however, that if it is a small or a thin 
punch, then finish with files or with hard chisels, 
and by whittling near enough to the lines aforesaid 
so that the punch can be forced through the die. 
Next place the punch within the slide or socket 
that is to hold it and force it through the die, and in 
doing this oil both the punch and die ; then with- 
draw or drive the punch from the die and ease it 
up with a fine file until it will enter the die freely, 
then harden and draw it to a straw-color. Some 
punches have the shank or part that enters the slide 
or socket made tapering ; in such a case the shank 
should not be fitted until the milling is done, as it 
would be difficult to hold it either in a chuck or in 
a vise. 

83. Making Gauges. 

Gauges to measure the inside of a hole are called 
cylindrical or plug gauges, and for large holes they 



Ib^P 




Cylindrical or Plug Gauges, Male and Female. 

should be about five inches long, and have a body 
or the part to be used in measuring three and a half 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 



95 



inches long, and should have a head turned and 
milled on the opposite end ; this end is held by the 
hand while measuring. The body should be turned 
a sixty-fourth of an inch above size, then hardened 
without drawing the temper, and then ground to the 




Knurling Mills and Stock, showing work. (Pratt & 
Whitney Co.) 

size desired. Then to make the female, or part for 
measuring the size of a shaft or a stud, it should be 
two and a half inches long, and should then have a 
hole bored through it about a hundredth of an inch 
below the size required when finished. Then to 
prevent it from springing it should be case-hardened 



96 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

and the temper not drawn ; then with lead cast upon 
arbors of square steel the holes are ground to size 
with oil and emery around the outside of this lead, 
and great care must be taken in this grinding, as 
the outer ends of the hole will be the first to come 
to size. The lead should be not over an inch long in 
order to grind the holes evenly or to the same size 
inside as they are at the ends of them. The arbors 
are of course run in a lathe and the gauge is held 
with clamps ; for small holes some of these gauges 
need not be over an inch in breadth, and then vary 
according to the size of the hole. 

Snap gauges or those having slots cut in the edges 
may be either round in shape or oblong, and should 
be about three eighths of an inch in thickness, 
Those made oblong should have one end shaped 
for a handle and about three and a half inches 
long, according to the size, and with a body of any 
length desired. These gauges are also used to get 
the size of shafting, screws, etc., and of metal of 
various shapes. Those used to get the size of shaft- 
ing screws or wire should have the slots cut once 
and one half in depth of the size of the shaft or any 
round object to be measured ; they should first have 
a hole drilled at the bottom of each slot about a 
sixteenth of an inch larger than the slot, or larger 
still, according to the size of the slot. They should 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 9? 

then be milled and filed to about three hun- 
dredths of an inch below the size desired when 
finished, then case-hardened, and with a thin copper 
wheel with emery and oil ground to the size re- 
quired. This class of work mentioned above is 
now usually measured with a micrometer, excepting, 
however, when an immense number of pieces of 
one size are to be measured. In grinding these slots 
the gauge should be placed on a rest set exactly 
parallel to the arbor, and the rest should be at an 
exact distance from the arbor at either of its ends. 
Gauges for pieces of various shapes where great ac- 
curacy is required should be made as near as pos- 
sible to the desired shape and about a thousandth 
below size, and then case-hardened and ground by 
the hand with pieces of copper, emery, and oil. 

84. A Tool for Turning the Outside of a Box. 

This tool is designed for doing the work usually 
done with a hollow mill, and contains a cutter that 
can be adjusted to turn instead of milling the out- 
side of a round box or bearing on a machine. It is 
simply an arm driven on to an arbor, and is secured 
by a pin that passes through it ; this arm is made 
angular in shape, and its outer portion hangs over 
one side of the arbor, and the side next the arbor 
in large-sized ones is about five eighths of an inch 



98 



THE BOSTOK MACHINIST. 



from the arbor ; at the end of this portion of it a 
cutter is inserted and is held by a screw that passes 
through the arm in the rear of the cutter, and the 
arm is slotted so as to form a clamp for holding the 
cutter. This portion of the angular piece that holds 
the cutter must be somewhat longer from the part 




A Tool for Turning the outside of Boxes. 

that crosses, and is secured to the arbor to the face 
of the cutter, than the box that is to be turned with 
it. The end of the arbor in front of the cutter should 
extend about one and one half inches, and this end 
of the arbor is turned to fit the hole in the box 
that is to be turned. This tool is an invention of 
the author, who has applied for a patent on it. 
85. Jigs for Drilling. 

In making these jigs from drawings where nu- 
merous holes are to be drilled of various sizes it is 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 99 

well to make a template of sheet steel about a 
tenth of an inch in thickness. This plate should 
be large enough to extend about three fourths of 
an inch outside of the holes that are at the greatest 
distance apart, and one edge of this plate should be 
made exactly straight; next, one end of this plate 
should be made square with the edge you have 
straightened : and these two edges of the plate 
are the guides to measure the holes from. Now 
lay the drawing on a smooth surface, and lay the 
plate on the drawing and adjust it to have these 
two edges three fourths of an inch from the out- 
ward holes ; then with a pencil having a sharp end 
mark a very light line on the drawing next the two 
edges of the template already straight and square. 
Now with a square set on one of these outside lines 
on the drawing draw with a pencil across the centre 
of each hole a line and extend to the line where 
your square rests. Next move the square to the 
other line and mark at a right angle across the 
centre of each hole, and extend the line as before 
to the line where the square rests. These lines 
running from the holes to the outside lines are to 
get the distance when transferring the holes on the 
drawing to the template ; and now to transfer the 
holes on the drawing to the template you will place 
the beam of a square against one edge of the tern- 



100 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

plate, and from the other edge of the template that 
is parallel with the blade of the square measure 
from centre of each hole on the drawing to the line 
drawn on its outside (with dividers) ; then place the 
blade of the square on the template the same dis- 
tance from the edge as shown on the drawing, and 
scratch a line at the edge of the blade. Next set 
the beam of the square against the edge you have 
measured from, and scratch a line across the one 
you have made at the distance from the centre of 
each hole, as shown on the drawing, to the edge of 
the template. It is well, however, in order to 
avoid mistakes and also to get the holes in an 
exact position, to scratch a line across four sides of 
each hole, and then with sharp dividers to strike a 
quarter circle the same size as shown on the draw- 
ing to meet the lines made at right angles. Next 
with a centre punch mark the centre of each hole 
deeply, then with drills a fortieth below size drill 
the holes ; then place the template on the drawing 
and see if the holes in it correspond with those on 
the drawing ; if they do not, file the holes until 
each hole is perfectly true with those on the draw- 
ing. Now clamp the template to the piece of cast- 
ing or other metal that you design to make the jig 
from ; but you must clamp the template to the 
under side of the jig, and in a position as to have 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 101 

the holes within it the same distance from the two 
working surfaces as the holes on the piece to be 
drilled are to be from its two edges or sides that 
are to rest against these two working-surfaces on 
the jig while the said holes are being drilled. 
These working-surfaces form a part of the jig, and 
are at one side and one end on its lower surface, 
and are raised an inch or more from it, and are 
planed square with the lower surface of the jig, 
and act as a support for one side and one end of a 
piece while the holes are being drilled ; and opposite 
these working surfaces and near one end and one 
side of the jig studs are set, with set-screws 
through them that screw the piece to be drilled 
against the said working surfaces. Now clamp the 
two squared edges of the template against the two 
working surfaces on the under side of the jig and 
scratch the holes on the jig through the template 
and drill them about a twentieth of an inch below 
size, and then redrill the holes with drills the size 
of the holes in the template, using it as a guide 
for the drills ; but the template should be removed 
before using the first drill, and replaced with its 
outer edges on the outside surfaces while enlarging 
the holes to their full size. After drilling the holes 
counterbore them three sixteenths above this size 
and fit the bushings, leaving a portion of each ex- 



102 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

tend above the upper surface of the jig about one 
fourth of an inch, and the diameter an eighth of an 
inch above the size of the hole after it is counter- 
bored ; then with a hand tool round and polish the 
outside end of each hole, then harden and drive 
the bushings to their places. In making jigs for 
drilling small pieces, the holes in one a sample 
having the holes drilled in a proper position, you 
may drill these holes through it and then use it to 
drill the holes in the jig from, and in doing this 
place the face of this sample or side you have 
drilled it through from next to and on the under 
side of the jig, and secure it against the two work- 
ing surfaces by the set-screws, and then drill the 
holes in the jig through from the under side ; then 
counterbore the holes from the upper side, and 
make the bushings as shown above, and set them 
in their places. 

I 

86. A Few Words as to Master Mechanics. 

It may safely be said that not one master me- 
chanic in twenty knows his business thoroughly. 
Nineteen of that twenty will only buy such heavy 
tools as he is forced to have in order to do his 
business, and then, for the want of a few small 
tools, that would cost comparatively nothing, some 
cotton waste with which to keep them clean, and a 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST, 103 

little care to see that it is done, his shop will be 
encumbered with rubbish and filth, his lathes, 
planers, milling-machine, etc., etc., covered with 
grease so as to be unfit for use, and his men spend 
one third of their time looking for a bolt, strap of 
iron, or some other petty thing, of less worth than 
the time spent in looking after them. These are 
the shops that generally go to ruin. And all this 
for the want of a superintendent who has common- 
sense, and is not asleep on duty. These remarks, 
however, do not apply to shops where guns are 
manufactured, as it is well known that they are kept 
in order. The mechanic who knows his business 
thoroughly will have every tool kept clean and in 
its place. He will have a sufficient number of taps, 
lathes, reamers, drill- and planer-tools, with all 
other small tools, so that no man need wait a mo- 
ment for want of them; for "time is money." 
He will keep his dogs, gears, cutters, and drills as 
near the machines they are used upon as possible, 
and thereby save trouble, and be more likely to 
insure them in their places. He should have for 
every planer half a dozen straps, made of one-inch 
by half-an-inch iron, and bent in a U shape, near 
enough together to hold a three-fourths-inch bolt. 
These straps need no drilling for the bolt, and are 
far more " handy " than straps with holes drilled 



104 THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 

through them. He should have three-fourths-inch 
bolts of a dozen sizes, with nuts an inch thick, in 
order to prevent stupid workmen from stripping 
them. He should see that the centres of arbors, 
when made, are countersunk, with a sink made to 
fit a triangular gauge, and .that the centres of the 
lathes likewise are kept perfectly three-square. 
Unless he does this the arbors will spoil the cen- 
tres of the lathes, and the centres of the arbors will 
soon wear out of true, and the arbors thus be 
rendered worthless. He should have plenty of 
drills, so they need not be altered every time he 
has a new hole to drill. He should have holes for 
drills in all small collets, of such a size that one 
drill can be used in any part of the shop ; and the 
large ones likewise. 

87. Lessons to Amateur Inventors and Others Who 
Propose to Become Inventors. 

Amateur inventors should know that seventy- 
five per cent of all patents issued from the Patent 
Office are not worth the cost of obtaining them. 
The reason for this is as soon as a young inventor 
gets an idea that he has something new he imme- 
diately has an application made and sent to the 
office for a patent, without looking through the 
stores, shops, or factories where such machines, 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 105 

implements, or material may be seen, which, if he 
should do, he would find something like it and often 
far better than his, and this would show him that 
his was of little or no commercial value. In the 
course of thirty years' experience as an inventor 
this has occurred to me over twenty times. There- 
fore I would say to amateur inventors, When you 
get an idea that you think is new on a machine, or 
for an improvement thereon, or an implement or a 
material or other article, or a compound, before 
you apply for a patent look carefully through such 
stores as your improvement is likely to be found at, 
and also through such shops or factories as you can 
gain an admittance within. Then you will have 
found whether there is not on the market or in use 
something alike or perhaps better than yours. 
And if you find nothing better or alike it, then it 
is usually safe to apply for a patent ; and when 
you do this be careful that you employ an honest 
solicitor and one who knows his business thor- 
oughly, as not one in ten of the solicitors of patents 
are competent to draw a complicated case properly. 
And no man or solicitor is competent to draw up a 
case in a complicated case unless he is well up 
in the principle of general mechanics and the vari- 
ous mechanical movements and devices that per- 
tain to forming a machine. Several years ago I 



106 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

gave a case to a solicitor who is also a patent lawyer 
who toyed with it and also with me for weeks, and 
finally told me he was not mechanic enough to 
draw the specification and claims for so compli- 
cated a machine, but wished me to draw them for 
him to copy. I then drew them up and gave the 
case to another solicitor. Boston, like all other 
cities, contains too many impostors who get an in- 
ventor's money for obtaining a patent that when 
issued is almost worthless, and merely because he 
has employed a fool for his solicitor. And for the 
benefit of inventors I recommend the firm of 
Crosby & Gregory, whose office is at No. 34 School 
Street, Boston, who during the past thirty-five years 
have acted as solicitors for me in some twenty 
cases, and from their long experience and thorough 
knowledge may be considered the most reliable, and 
as expert as any, in their very scientific and difficult 
profession. Several times have I taken them some- 
thing that I thought was new and of great value 
only to be informed they could only get very small 
claims on it, and there was no money in it, for the 
reason that it was nearly covered by a previous 
patent. As to their charges, they are the most 
liberal. 

When an inventor has his papers drawn and en- 
tered into the Patent Office, it is well to make a 



the bostok machinist. 10? 

small machine, mainly of wood ; then he will see if 
there is any necessary changes to be made in the 
construction of it, and it costs not one fitth the 
price to make one of wood that it does to make 
one of iron. This, however, is not always practi- 
cable, especially in a complicated machine ; but 
when it can only be made of metal it is only neces- 
sary to have the various working parts well fitted, 
and no fine finishing is needed, for the reason that 
a first machine rarely comes up to the promised 
expectations, and in such a case all the work done 
in finishing a first machine is thrown away. 

After one machine is made to suit your ideas it 
should be put into use and thoroughly tried in 
order to see if there is any fault to be remedied be- 
fore building any large quantity, as I have seen 
millions of capital wasted in building machines be- 
fore the parties had a good machine to build from. 

Beware of lawyers. About one third of them are 
as useless as the work they pretend to do for you, 
and think more about your money than your work ; 
and when you employ one be sure you have one 
that knows his business, and will not lie, cheat, 
and steal. They are, of course, all honorable men. 

Again, after an inventor has received his patent 
papers he should, unless he has plenty of capital 
to make and place the product of his invention on 



108 THE BOSTON" MACHINIST. 

the market, he should find a capitalist to make and 
sell the machine or material covered by his patent, 
and have the manufacturer and seller thereof pay 
him a royalty on every machine or other product 
of his invention sold ; and he should be sure and 
not be caught by one who pretends to have money, 
— as there are thousands of these, — and who at the 
same time have not a dollar that they can call their 
own. Every large city has too many of this class of 
people. The inventor should also be careful and 
not be caught by a certain class of men known as 
promoters ; many of these people will tell you they 
can control others who are their friends and have 
millions to invest in any enterprise. These men 
never invest a dollar themselves ; indeed, three 
fourths of them have none to invest. They will pro- 
pose to form a company composed of their friends 
to manufacture and sell your property and pay you 
in the stock of this company for your patent ; you 
assign it to the company that has not ten dollars 
in the treasury to begin manufacturing ; then their 
bogus company bursts, and you have lost your 
patent by assigning it to them. Therefore, when 
you assign your patent to a company, be sure you 
have solid men in it who have the means to manu- 
facture it within a certain limited time, and have 
the assignment read that in the event of their 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 10§ 

not manufacturing your machine or material within 
that specified period the patent shall then belong 
to you, and that you shall then have the full and 
exclusive right to either sell it or manufacture and 
sell any property covered by the claims in your 
patent. Do not depend on a reassignment, for 
this they may not do. Again, the inventor should 
be on the alert for parties who, for a small con- 
sideration, try to have him assign to them a limited 
portion of his patent ; for this reason, that as soon 
as a man or a company has merely one tenth of a 
patent assigned to them it gives them as full a 
right to manufacture and sell as if they owned the 
whole patent, and they are not accountable to the 
inventor for one penny. The assignment of a cer- 
tain portion of a patent does not, however, grant 
the party who obtains it an exclusive right to manu- 
facture and sell the material covered by such patent, 
but the inventor can either manufacture and sell 
or he may sell the remaining portion of said patent 
whenever he desires. And again, when an in- 
ventor gives a license to any party to make and sell 
the property covered by his patent on a royalty, he 
should demand a certain sum in advance as a guar- 
antee that the party to whom he grants a license 
shall fulfil all the provisions of his license, and that 
the sum advanced shall be forfeited if the party 



110 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

who has obtained said license does not build a cer- 
tain number of machines or other material covered 
by his patent within a specified period of time ; 
otherwise a party may obtain a license to manu- 
facture and never build a machine or any material 
covered by his patent. This has been frequently 
done by parties of wealth, and who were supposed 
to be honest men, but who in fact were far worse 
than thieves, for thieves run a risk of going to State 
prison, and Boston has plenty of such parties. 
This the writer happens to know by experience. 

88. A Form for a License. 

Whereas I, John Smith, of Norwood, in the 
county of Norfolk and in the State of Massachusetts, 
have obtained letters patent of the United States 
for sewing-machines, the same being numbered as 
396,745. And whereas Silas Philips, of Salem, 
Mass., is desirous of gaining an exclusive license to 
manufacture and sell the aforesaid machines. Now 
this indenture witnesseth that for and in considera- 
tion of one dollar to me in hand paid by said Silas 
Philips and certain other valuable considerations I, 
John Smith, do hereby grant the said Philips a full 
and exclusive license to make and sell the aforesaid 
machines in all of the United States ; and this 
license further provides that the said Philips shall 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. Ill 

pay quarterly the sum of twenty dollars as a 
royalty on each and every machine sold, and that 
every machine shall be numbered, and that the 
said Philips shall make and place on the market 
at least six machines within five months from the 
date upon which this license was granted ; and it 
is further agreed that the said Philips shall advance 
to the said Smith the sum of three hundred dollars, 
this sum to be held as a guarantee for the faithful 
performance of all provisions of this license, and 
that in case any of the provisions of this license 
are evaded and not carried out this license shall 
be forfeited and become null and void and of no 
further use. And the three hundred dollars ad- 
vanced by said Philips shall also be forfeited for 
non-fulfilment of the provisions of this license. 
To which we hereby place our signatures and 
names, this fifth day of March, 1896. 

John Smith, 
Silas Philips. 

Henry C. Lodge, 

Henry C. Greenhalge, 

Witnesses. 

89. Inventors and Mechanics Contrasted. 

Many people think that an inventor is only a 
highly educated mechanic, and that any good me- 



112 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

chanic must also be an inventor. In this they are 
greatly mistaken, as there are numerous invent- 
ors who know very little about mechanism, and 
nearly all inventors who have made any great suc- 
cess were born inventors, or, like the poet, he is 
born and not made, and all the education he may 
gain will make him, the poet, merely a verse- 
writer. There are many others who class all men 
who have learned their trades as mechanics, and 
as such in every sense, when in fact nine tenths of 
them are merely workmen who are foiled every 
hour unless they have a master mechanic to in- 
struct them about their work, especially when they 
have to work from drawings ; and any man to be a 
great mechanic must be one of superior intelligence 
and some original ideas for designing and applying 
the general elements that are contained in the many 
different kinds of constructed machinery, and mak- 
ing drawings therefor, and know all about the 
shrinkage of the various kinds of metals, and also 
when patterns are made properly. 

90. Making Drawings, etc. 

In making drawings for a complicated machine 
it is well, in order to have the workman under- 
stand the numerous parts without becoming con- 
fused with the lines, to shade the main parts with 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 113 

colors of different shades ; this can be done, with 
but a small loss of time, with w T ax pencils. And in 
making drawings for patterns from which iron 
castings are to be made, an eighth of an inch to a 
foot is allowed for shrinkage : that is, if a piece of 
casting is wanted two feet long, the pattern must 
be two feet and one fourth of an inch long ; and in 
making patterns from which brass or composition 
castings are to be made, three sixteenths of an inch 
to a foot is allowed for shrinkage. And if the edges 
or outside of a casting is to be raised, its height and 
shape should be shown in an end view on the 
drawing. In drawings for boxes to be lined with 
Babbitt metal the guard at each end for holding it 
should be shown a sixteenth of an inch below size, 
— for this reason, that in casting boxes the guards 
seldom come true with the outside, and in such a 
case the side coming nearest the centre can be filed 
until they measure the same from the outside as 
the opposite side ; then a rose reamer should be 
run through the guards of the same size as the 
shaft that is to revolve within it. In boxes that 
are cast to the frame of a machine only the outside 
guard should be cast below size, and this guard 
should be treated in the same way as shown above, 
while the inside guard may be cast a tenth of an 
inch above the size of the shaft, and all boxes 



114 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

where the machine is not too heavy should have 
the lining metal poured from one end, as it insures 
a more solid lining than when poured from one 
side ; but where the box is in two halves this can- 
not be done, as only one half can be cast at one 
time : then when casting them, first fill the one cast 
on the machine, then place a piece or strip of 
paper over the outside edge of the lining next the 
shaft, then screw the outside half of the box to its 
place, and fill it. In lining boxes the shaft or arbor 
used should be heated hot enough to melt the 
metal, as the metal will cool as soon as it is poured 
and the shaft will then come out easily, and will 
also insure a solid lining, which would not be the 
case if the metal was poured against a cold shaft ; 
and before filling a solid box place a collar or place 
putty around the shaft at the end or ends of the 
box or boxes. 

91. A Few Words to Men of Capital. 

Parties about to start a factory and manufacture 
machinery should first find a man of brains and 
large experience in the kind of machines they pro- 
pose to build, and it is well to have one with some 
education for superintendent. I have often ob- 
served advertisements for a graduate of some insti- 
tute of technology to superintend a machine fac- 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 115 

tory, and have seen several of these men who were 
of no use and entirely failed, merely for want of 
practical experience: they only know what has 
been driven into them at an institute. Some years 
ago a certain company started in Boston a shop 
for the manufacture of rifles, and employed a petty 
lawyer to superintend it who never had any prac- 
tical experience ; the result was he nearly ruined 
the concern, as he had one previously. Then 
they had their eyes opened, for he had spent nearly 
a million dollars for tools that had to be thrown 
away as useless, and he was discharged, and a 
practical gun-maker was employed, with toolmakers 
who knew their business, and the company finally 
made some three millions in their enterprise. 
Again, a certain party whose father had died leav- 
ing $300,000, entered the business of manufactur- 
ing shoe machinery. This man knew merely 
enough to employ his bookkeeper to buy tools for 
his factory that he knew nothing about, and were 
consigned to the storeroom as useless. The pro- 
prietor of this factory sunk all of his property 
within five years, and died a ruined and broken- 
down man. 

Still another man who thought himself a great 
business man entered the business of manufac- 
turing machinery, where he had over a dozen dif- 



116 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

ferent kinds of machines to build, each of which 
required many special tools. This wiseacre would 
as soon as he got a superintendent to thoroughly 
master all of his machines and know all of the 
various tools for making them, discharge him, 
thinking his days of usefulness were over. Then 
he would employ another who knew little or noth- 
ing about his line of busines to go through a two 
or more years' experience before he became posted 
on the numerous machines and the special tools 
with which to build them. Next he discharged him, 
and employed a bookkeeper who knew nothing 
about machinery. The result was, he sunk nearly 
all of his $75,000 that he put into it, and finally he 
became unable to raise sufficient funds to run his 
shop with only a half-dozen men, and it is said he 
burned his house to obtain the insurance. He also 
died a ruined and broken-down man. 

This was not the way B. F. Sturtevant did his 
business, for he would only employ the best men 
he could find and paid them accordingly, and would 
also keep them as long as possible. His first ques- 
tion to a man applying for work was, Are you well 
up in this business ? Then if he did not get an af- 
firmative answer he would walk away and have no 
more to say with him. The author of this work 
happened to be his foreman for nearly four years, 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 117 

and started his shop on Sudbury Street in Boston. 
He was then in debt nearly §1200, and when the 
author of this left him to enter other business, he 
was making a profit of $300 per week on his fan- 
blowers, peg-wood, etc. He died worth over a 
million dollars. My reason for leaving him was, I 
had invented a repeating or magazine rifle, that 
became the best in existence at that date — in 1864. 
Only a half dozen of them were made, however, 
for I had assigned one half of the patent to Harvey 
F. Payton & Co., who then occupied the best office 
on State Street. Payton then had the Honorable 
Wm. Sprague, of Providence, R. I., come to Boston,' 
who had it thoroughly tried and sent to Springfield 
armory, where it was tried still further. Then Mr. 
Sprague offered to buy and pay $50,000 for it, and 
then Payton began to play what he thought a sharp 
game and get all of the proceeds into his own and 
his partner's pockets ; but he played this game too 
long, or at least until Mr. Sprague became disgusted 
with him, and would have nothing to do with either 
him or* his partner. Thus through his rascality he 
lost his $25,000, and I mine. Soon after this our 
war came to an end and the rifle also, there being 
no use for it in America. Payton became so well 
known as a swindler that no man would do any 
business with him, and died a pauper. Another of 



118 THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 

his ring died of delirium tremens, and a third was 
killed in trying to make liquid gas, as he called it. 

Sweet retribution, it is thus as ever and ever will be — 
That he who by stealth will ruin his friend, 

Will find himself ruined, deserted at last, 
And come to a miserable end. 

92. Note on Balance-wheels. 

Although balance-wheels have been used for 
several centuries, the proper way of applying them 
seemed never to have been employed. I therefore 
endeavored to ascertain this, and have discovered 
that every balance-wheel should be speeded up, so 
as to run twice or three times as fast as the crank- 
shaft it is intended to balance ; and that where a 
balance-wheel is applied in this way, it makes the 
machine run a great deal more steadily, for when the 
balance-wheel is geared into the crank-shaft, and 
runs two or three times faster than the crank-shaft, 
it forms a power of itself, when going over the centre, 
which propels the crank-shaft until it reaches the 
quarter where it again takes its power from the 
machine. Although it takes an additional shaft and 
gears to apply a balance-wheel in this way, the sav- 
ing of metal in the balance-w T heel fully compensates 
for the extra machinery, for when a balance-wheel 



THE BOSTON MACHINIST. 119 

is speeded three times as fast as the crank-shaft, it 
needs only one third of the metal in it that it would 
were it not speeded up at all, and if balance-wheels 
were applied in this way generally, it would make 
all engines run far more steadily. 



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. Kirkwood's Lead Pipe for Service Pipe 8vo, 1 50 

Wolff's Windmill as a Prime Mover 8vo, 3 00 

' Howard's Transition Curve Field-book 12mo, morocco flap, 1 50 

Crandail's The Transition Curve 12mo, morocco, 1 50 

7 



Cranckll's Earthwork Tables ■. . 8vo, $1 50 

Pattern's Civil Engineering 8vo, 7 50 

" Foundations : 8vo, 5 00 

Carpenter's Experimental Engineering 8vo, 6 00 

Webb's Engineering Instruments 12mo, morocco, 1 00 

Black's U. S. Public Works 4to, 5 00 

Merriman and Brook's Handbook for Surveyors. . . .12mo, mor., 2 00 

Merriman's Retaining Walls and Masonry Dams 8vo, 2 00 

" Geodetic Surveying 8vo, 2 00 

Kiersted's Sewage Disposal 12mo, 1 25 

Siebert and Biggin's Modern Stone Cutting and Masonry. . .8vo, 1 50 

Kent's Mechanical Engineer's Pocket-book 12mo, morocco, 5 00 

HYDRAULICS. 

Water-wheels — Windmills — Service Pipe — Drainage, Etc. 

Weisbach's Hydraulics. (Du Bois.) .. . , 8vo, 5 00 

Merriman's Treatise on Hydraulics. 8vo, 4 00 

Ganguillet & Kutter's Flow of Water. (Hering & Trautwine ). 8vo; 4 00 

Nichols's Water Supply (Chemical and Sanitary) 8vo, 2 50 

Wolff's Windmill as a Prime Mover 8vo, 3 00 

Ferrers Treatise on the Winds, Cyclones, and Tornadoes. . .8vo, 4 00 

Kirkwood's Lead Pipe for Service Pipe 8vo, 1 50 

Ruffner's Improvement for Non-tidal Rivers 8vo, i 25 

Wilson's Irrigation Engineering. 8vo, 4 00 

Bovey's Treatise on Hydraulics ........ 8vo, 4 00 

Wegmann's Water Supply of the City of New York 4to, 10 00 

Hazen's Filtration of Public Water Supply 8vo, 2 00 

Mason's Water Suppl} r — Chemical and Sanitary 8vo, 5 00 

Wood's Theory of Turbines , 8vo, 2 50 

MANUFACTURES. 

Aniline — Boilers — Explosives — Iron— Sugar — Watches— 
Woollens, Etc 

Metcalfe's Cost of Manufactures 8vo, 5 00 

Metcalf 's Steel (Manual for Steel Users). ; 12mo, 2 00 

Allen's Tables for Iron Analysis 8vo, 

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West's American Foundry Practice 12mo, 

Moulder's Text-book 12mo, 

Speucer's Sugar Manufacturer's Handbook. . . .12mo, inor. flap, 

Wiechmann's Sugar Analysis , 8vo, 

Beaumont's Woollen and Worsted Manufacture 12mo, 

* Reisig's Guide to Piece Dyeing 8vo, 

Eissler's Explosives, Nitroglycerine and Dynamite 8vo, 

Reimann's Aniline Colors. (Crookes.) , 8vo, 

Fold's Boiler Making for Boiler Makers 18mo, 

Thurston's Manual of Steam Boilers < . .■ 8vo, 

Booth's Clock and Watch Maker's Manual 12mo, 

Holly's Saw Filing 18mo, 

Svedelius's Handbook for Charcoal Burners 12mo, 

The Lathe and Its Uses . . . 8vo, 

Woodbury's Fire Protection of Mills 8vo, 

Bolland's The Iron Founder 12mo, 

" " " " Supplement 12mo, 

" Encyclopaedia of Founding Terms. ... , 12mo, 

Bouvier's Handbook on Oil Painting 12mo, 

Steven's House Painting 18mo, 

MATERIALS OF ENGINEERING. 

Strength — Elasticity — Resistance, Etc. 

Thurston's Materials of Engineering 3 vols., 8vo, 

Vol. I., Non-metallic. 8vo, 

Vol. II. , Iron and Steel 8vo, 

Vol. III., Alloys, Brasses, and Bronzes 8vo, 

Thurston's Materials of Construction 8vo, 

Baker's Masonry Construction 8vo, 

Lanza's Applied Mechanics. . 8vo, 

" Strength of Wooden Columns ■ . .8vo, paper, 

Wood's Resistance of Materials. 8vo, 

Weyrauch's Strength of Iron and Steel. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 

Burr's Elasticity and Resistance of Materials 8vo, 

Merriman's Mechanics of Materials 8vo, 

Church's Mechanic's of Engineering — Solids and Fluids 8vo, 

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Beardslee and Kent*s Strength of Wrought Iroti. .;....... .8vo, $1 50 

Hatfield's Transverse Strains 8vo, 5 00 

Du Bois's Strains in Framed Structures 4to, 10 00 

Merrill's Stones for Building and Decoration 8vo, 5 00 

Bovey's Strength of Materials 8vo, 7 50 

Spalding's Roads and Pavements 12mo, 2 00 

Rockwell's Roads and Pavements in France 12mo, 1 25 

Byrne's Highway Construction 8vo, 5 00 

Patton's Treatise on Foundations 8vo, 5 00 

MATHEMATICS. 

Calculus — Geometry — Trigonometry, Etc. 

Rice and Johnson's Differential Calculus 8vo, 3 50 

Abridgment of Differential Calculus 8vo, 1 50 

" Differential and Integral Calculus, 

2 vols, in 1, 12mo, 2 50 

Johnson's Integral Calculus 12mo, 1 50 

" Curve Tracing 12mo, 1 00 

" Differential Equations — Ordinary and Partial 8vo, 3 50 

" Least Squares 12mo, 1 50 

Craig's Linear Differential Equations 8vo, 5 00 

Merriman and Woodward's Higher Mathematics 8vo, 

Bass's Differential Calculus 12mo, 

Halsted's Synthetic Geometry 8vo, 1 50 

" Elements of Geometry *. .8vo, 1 75 

Chapman's Theory of Equations 12mo, 1 50 

Merriman's Method of Least Squares 8vo, 2 00 

Compton's Logarithmic Computations 12mo, 1 50 

Davis's Introduction to the Logic of Algebra 8vo, 1 50 

Warren's Primary Geometry 12mo, 75 

" Plane Problems 12mo, 1 25 

" Descriptive Geometry 2 vols., 8vo, 3 50 

" Problems and Theorems 8vo, 2 50 

" Higher Linear Perspective 8vo, 3 50 

" Free-hand Drawing 12mo, 1 00 

" Drafting Instruments 12mo, 1 25 

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Warren's Projection Drawing. ..*»..* , 12mo, $1 50 

" Linear Perspective 12mo, 100 

• ' Plane Problems 12mo, 1 25 

Searles's Elements of Geometry 8vo, 1 50 

Brigg's Plane Analytical Geometry 12mo, 1 00 

Wood's Co-ordinate Geometry 8vo, 2 00 

Trigonometry 12mo, 100 

Mahan's Descriptive Geometry (Stone Cutting) 8vo, 1 50 

Woolfs Descriptive Geometry Royal 8vo, 3 00 

Ludlow's Trigonometry with Tables. (Bass.) 8vo, 3 00 

Logarithmic and Other Tables. (Bass.) 8vo, 2 00 

Baker's Elliptic Functions 8vo, 1 50 

Parker's Quadrature of the Circle , 8vo, 2 50 

Totten's Metrology 8vo, 2 50 

Ballard's Pyramid Problem 8vo, 1 50 

Barnard's Pyramid Problem 8vo, 1 50 

MECHANICS-MACHINERY, 

Text-books and Practical Works. 

Dana's Elementary Mechanics 12mo, 1 50 

Wood's " " 12mo, 125 

" Supplement and Key 1 25 

' ' Analytical Mechanics 8 vo, 3 00 

Michie's Analytical Mechanics 8vo, 4 00 

Merriman's Mechanics of Materials .8vo, 4 00 

Church's Mechanics of Engineering 8vo, 6 00 

" Notes and Examples in Mechanics 8vo, 2 00 

Mosely's Mechanical Engineering. (Mahan.) 8vo, 5 00 

Weisbach's Mechanics of Engineering. Vol. III., Part I., 

Sec. I. (Klein.) 8vo, 5 00 

Weisbach's Mechanics of Engineering. Vol. III., Part I., 

Sec.II. (Klein.) 8vo, 5 00 

Weisbach's Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors. (Du Bois.)..8vo, 5 00 

" Steam Engines. (Du Bois.) , 8vo, 5 00 

Lanza's Applied Mechanics 8vo, 7 50 

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Orehore's Mechanics of the Girder •.».*..»..•.» 8vo, $5 00 

MacCord's Kinematics 8vo, 5 00 

Thurston's Friction and Lost Work , . . . . .8vo, 3 00 

" The Animal as a Machine , 12mo, 100 

Hall's Car Lubrication 12mo, 1 00 

Warren's Machine Construction 2 vols., 8vo, 7 50 

Chordal's Letters to Mechanics 12mo, 2 00 

The Lathe and Its Uses 8vo, 6 00 

Cromwell's Toothed Gearing 12mo, 1 50 

Belts and Pulleys 12mo, 1 50 

Du Bois's Mechanics. Vol. I., Kinematics 8vo, 3 50 

Vol. IL, Statics 8vo, 4 00 

Vol. III., Kinetics 8vo, 3 50 

Dredge's Trans. Exhibits Building, World Exposition, 

4to, half morocco, 15 00 

Flather's Dynamometers 12mo, 2 00 

" Rope Driving 12mo, 2 00 

Richards's Compressed Air 12mo, 1 50 

Smith's Press-working of Metals 8vo, 3 00 

Holly's Saw Filing 18mo, 75 

Fitzgerald's Boston Machioist l*8mo, 1 00 

Baldwin's Steam Heating for Buildings 12mo, 2 50 

Metcalfe's Cost of Manufactures 8vo, 5 00 

Benjamin's Wrinkles and Recipes 12mo, 2 00 

Dingey's Machinery Pattern Making 12mo, 2 00 

METALLURGY. 

Iron— Gold— Silver — Alloys, Etc. 

Egleston's Metallurgy of Silver 8vo, 7 50 

Gold and Mercury 8vo, 7 50 

" Weights and Measures, Tables 18mo, 75 

" Catalogue of Minerals 8vo, 2 50 

O'Driscoll's Treatment of Gold Ores 8vo, 2 00 

* Kerl's Metallurgy — Copper and Iron 8vo, 15 00 

* " " Steel, Fuel, etc 8vo, 15 00 

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Thurston's Iron and Steel 8vo, $3 50 

Alloys .8vo, 2 50 

Troilius's Chemistry of Iron 8vo, 2 00 

Kunhardt's Ore Dressing in Europe 8vo, 1 50 

Weyrauch's Strength of Iron and Steel. (Do Bois.) -...8vo, 1 50 

Beardslee and Kent's Strength of Wrought Iron .8vo, 1 50 

Compton's First Lessons in Metal Working 12mo, 1 50 

West's American Foundry Practice 12mo, 2 50 

" Moulder's Text-book 12mo, 2 50 



MINERALOGY AND MINING. 

Mine Accidents — Ventilation— Ore Dressing, Etc. 

Dana's Descriptive Mineralogy. (E. S.) 8vo, half morocco, 

" Mineralogy and Petrography. (J. D.) 12mo, 

" Text-book of Mineralogy. (E. S.) 8vo, 

" Minerals and How to Study Them. (E. S.) 12mo, 

et American Localities of Minerals .8vo, 

Brush and Dana's Determinative Mineralogy 8vo, 

Rosenbusch's Microscopical Physiography of Minerals and 

Rocks. (Iddings.) 8vo, 

Hussak's Rock- forming Minerals. (Smith.) 8vo, 

Williams's Lithology *. 8vo, 

Chester's Catalogue of Minerals 8vo, 

" Dictionary of the Names of Minerals 8vo, 

Egleston's Catalogue of Minerals and Synonyms 8vo, 

Goodyear's Coal Mines of the Western Coast 12mo, 

Kunhardt's Ore Dressing in Europe .8vo, 

Sawyer's Accidents in Mines ■ .* 8vo, 

Wilson's Mine Ventilation 16mo, 

Boyd's Resources of South Western Virginia .8vo, 

" Map of South Western Virginia Pocket-book form, 

Stockbridge's Rocks and Soils 8vo, 

Eissler's Explosives — Nitroglycerine and Dynamite 8vo, 

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12 50 


2 00 


3 50 


1 50 


1 00 


3 50 


5 00 


2 00 


3 00 


1 25 


3 00 


2 50 


2 50 


1 50 


7 00 


1 25 


3 00 


2 00 


2 50 


4 00 



^Drinker's Tunnelling, Explosives, Compounds, and Rock Drills. 

^4to, half morocco, $25 00 

Beard's Ventilation of Mines 12mo, 2 50 

Ihlseng's Manual of Mining. . . . 8vo, 4 00 

STEAM AND ELECTRICAL ENGINES, BOILERS, Etc. 

Stationary — Marine— Locomotive — Gas Engines, Etc. 

Weisbach's Steam Engine. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 

Thurston's Engine and Boiler Trials 8vo, 5 00 

Philosophy of the Steam Engine 12mo, 75 

Stationary Steam Engines. 12mo, 1 50 

Boiler Explosion 12mo, 1 50 

Steam-boiler Construction and Operation 8vo, 

Reflection on the Motive Power of Heat. (Carnot.) 

12mo, 2 00 
Thurston's Manual of the Steam Engine. Part I., Structure 

and Theory , 8vo, 7 50 

Thurston's Manual of the Steam Engine. Part II., Design, 

Construction, and Operation 8vo, 7 50 

2 parts, 12 00 

Rontgen's Thermodynamics. (Du Bois. ) 8vo, 5 00 

Peabody's Thermodynamics of the Steam Engine 8vo, 5 00 

" Valve Gears for the Steam-Engine 8vo, 2 50 

Tables of Saturated Steam 8vo, 1 00 

Wood's Thermodynamics, Heat Motors, etc 8vo, 4 00 

Pupin and Osterberg's Thermodynamics 12mo, 1 25 

Kneass's Practice and Theory of the Injector 8vo, 1 50 

Reagan's Steam and Electrical Locomotives 12mo, 2 00 

Meyer's Modern Locomotive Construction 4to, 10 00 

Whitham's Steam-engine Design ... t 8vo, 6 00 

" Constructive Steam Engineering 8vo, 10 00 

Hemen way's Indicator Practice 12mo, 2 00 

Pray's Twenty Years with the Indicator Royal 8vo, 2 50 

Spangler's Valve Gears 8vo, 2 50 

* Maw's Marine Engines Folio, half morocco, 18 00 

Trowbridge's Stationary Steam Engines 4to, boards, 2 50 

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Ford's Boiler Making for Boiler Makers 8 18mo, $1 00 

Wilson's Steam Boilers. (Flather.) 12ino, 2 50 

Baldwin's Steam Heating for Buildings 12mo, 2 50 

Hoadley's Warm-blast Furnace 8vo, 1 50 

Sinclair's Locomotive Running 12mo, 2 00 

Clerk's Gas Engine < 12mo, 

TABLES, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. 

For Engineers, Mechanics, Actuaries — Metric Tables, Etc. 

Crandall's Railway and Earthwork Tables 8vo, 1 50 

Johnson's Stadia and Earthwork Tables 8vo, 1 25 

Bixby's Graphical Computing Tables Sheet, 25 

Compton's Logarithms 12mo, 1 50 

Ludlow's Logarithmic and Other Tables. (Bass.) 12mo, 2 00 

Thurston's Conversion Tables 8vo, 1 00 

Egleston's Weights and Measures 18mo, 75 

Totten's Metrology 8vo, 2 50 

Fisher's Table of Cubic Yards. Cardboard, 25 

Hudson's Excavation Tables. Vol. II 8vo, 1 00 

VENTILATION. 

Steam Heating — House Inspection — Mine Ventilation. 

Beard's Ventilation of Mines 12mo, 2 50 

Baldwin's Steam Heating 12mo, 2 50 

Reid's Ventilation of American Dwellings 12mo, 1 50 

Mott's The Air We Breathe, and Ventilation 16mo, 1 00 

Gerhard's Sanitary House Inspection Square 16mo, 1 00 

Wilson's Mine Ventilation 16mo, 1 25 

Carpenter's Heating and Ventilating of Buildings 8vo, 3 00 

HISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS, 

Alcott's Gems, Sentiment, Language Gilt edges, 5 00 

Bailey's The New Tale of a Tub 8vo, 75 

Ballard's Solution of the Pyramid Problem 8vo, 1 50 

Barnard's The Metrological System of the Great Pyramid. .8vo, 1 50 

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* Wiley's Yosemite, Alaska, and Yellowstone 4to, $3 00 

Emmon's Geological Guide-book- of the Rocky Mountains. .8vo, 1 50 

Ferrel's Treatise on the Winds 8vo, 4 00 

Perkins's Cornell University Oblong 4to, 1 50 

Ricketts's History of Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute 8vo, 3 00 

Mott's The Fallacy of the Present Theory of Sound . . Sq. lGnio, 1 00 
Rotherharn's The New Testament Critically Ernphathized. 

12mo, 1 50 

Totteu's An Important Question in Metrology. 8vo, 2 50 

Whitehouse's Lake Mceris Paper, 25 

HEBREW AND CHALDEE TEXT=BOOKS. 

For Schools and Theological Seminaries. 

Gesenius's Hebrew and Chaldee Lexicon to Old Testament. 

(Tregelles.) Small 4to, half morocco, 5 00 

Green's Grammar of the Hebrew Language (New Edition). 8 vo, 3 00 

" Elementary Hebrew Grammar 12mo, 1 25 

" Hebrew Chrestomathy 8vo, 2 00 

Letteris's Hebrew Bible (Massoretic Notes in English). 

8vo, arabesque, 2 25 
Luzzato's Grammar of the Biblical Chaldaic Language and the 

Talmud Babli Idioms 12mo, 1 50 

MEDICAL. 

Bull's Maternal Management in Health and Disease 12mo, 1 00 

Mott's Composition, Digestibility, and Nutritive Value of Food. 

Large mounted chart, 1 25 

Steel's Treatise on the Diseases of the Ox. 8vo, 6 00 

" Treatise on the Diseases of the Dog 8vo, 3 50 

Worcester's Small Hospitals — Establishment and Maintenance, 
including Atkinson's Suggestions for Hospital Archi- 
tecture 12mo, 1 25 

Hammarsten's Physiological Chemistry. (Mandel.) 8vo, 4 00 



16 




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